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Aaarrgh! Crappy torx screw stripped!

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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 10:39 AM
  #31  
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i tapped all mine bigger and run a larger allen head in there... plus it looks better
 
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 10:53 AM
  #32  
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I've owned 4 new Harleys to date. Never stripped a derby cover screw, and NEVER used loctite on them. Not a single leak-ever. If you use the right torque spec you do NOT need loctite. I've also heard that you can put a dab of valve grinding paste in a stubborn screw head and get a better grip with the removal tool. Never done it, but will keep it in mind if I ever need to.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 11:47 AM
  #33  
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Best way to avoid reaming a stubborn screw is to use an impact driver. If you don't have air, an electric impact driver works pretty well for small screws/bolts. They also make small impact drivers that you smack with a hammer. Those work great for breaking loose torx or phillips screws that are already boogered up a bit.

Originally Posted by Clayvis
I've owned 4 new Harleys to date. Never stripped a derby cover screw, and NEVER used loctite on them. Not a single leak-ever. If you use the right torque spec you do NOT need loctite.
Same here. I never use loctite on any primary cover screws or cam cover screws. Never had any come loose.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 09:12 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Wabbit
Anyone know for sure what the official torque is for the derby cover screws on a 2011 Fatboy lo?
Don't know "official" numbers but my manual (07 Fatboy) says 84-108 in/lbs. with a special sequence....see attached. Hope this is what you are lookin for.
 
Attached Thumbnails Aaarrgh!  Crappy torx screw stripped!-clutch-cover-torque.jpg  
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 09:27 PM
  #35  
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No loctite on Derby screws. Anti size won't hurt.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 10:00 PM
  #36  
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I love these common problem threads! I too stripped one the first time servicing myself...I mean servicing the bike. I did like D'LUX suggested and drilled the head off, then surprisingly backed out the stud by hand. Nervous doing it though, as I thought, "Man, if I mess this up...it's gonna cost me dearly!" Everything turned out alright regarding that episode. Now, who's gonna fess up to cross threading the primary drain bolt? HA!!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 02:29 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Mr. Mike
. Now, who's gonna fess up to cross threading the primary drain bolt? HA!!
Not me, cause I never done it! But I do know of a local indy shop that has cross threaded lots of $hit! The biggest one they mess up is the tranny drain plug on Softails. It is located between the shocks under the bike. Takes some skill to get it back in.

If your skills are so poor that you cross thread a primary drain plug, then I suggest you practice wrenching on something less valuable, like an old lawnmower. Seriously, good wrenching skills can take years to master. I started around age 8 with bicycles, then mini-bikes, then POS cars and Hondas, etc. It has been a learning process. Jumping in on a $20k Harley with a K-mart set of tools is not advised. Poor quality wrenching on a motorcycle can get you killed.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 02:00 PM
  #38  
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mine was done at the 1000 mile service.i tried to remove them and do the service at 10000 but cant get the cover off.ive read this thread and would like to ask about using a small battery impact?since the torque value is so small im thinking the dealer used loctite.i would contact said dealer but they closed up shop.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 02:11 PM
  #39  
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I bought a mini butane torch and heated up the bolts like some people here suggested. It melted the red loctite and worked.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 02:28 PM
  #40  
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When I wanted to do change out mine I sprayed a little WD-40 on the bolts when i pulled her into the garage and then broke them loose when she was still a little warm. Granted they had only been on the bike for about a year from manufacturing but luckily it worked and didnt put anything on the bolts when I reinstalled them.
 
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