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Aaarrgh! Crappy torx screw stripped!

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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 11:17 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Wabbit

Bauer4567, the dealership would have done that. This is the first time I've messed with it, trying to take off the primary to send it out for powder coat. The bolts were on there pretty tight, I used a screwdriver type but had to put a wrench on it to get the leverage to loosen the others.
If you cant crack them with the screwdriver style driver, they were over torqued or had the wrong loctite. Honestly, when you torque them, it feels like there is NO way that is tight enough... never had a leak yet though...
 
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 11:36 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by bauer4567
If you cant crack them with the screwdriver style driver, they were over torqued or had the wrong loctite. Honestly, when you torque them, it feels like there is NO way that is tight enough... never had a leak yet though...

This is similar to plumbing in general. Over-torque plumbing connections, and you get leaks, which can be contrary to most thoughts!

Anyway, I hope you get that last bolt out. I know exactly how you feel.

And to let you know it could be worse, here's my recent experience:
2003 Heritage Springer, and I bought the obsolete 100th cover set. Went to change the timer cover, and two of the bolt heads twisted right off. One I was able to drill out, but the other, no luck.

Had to replace the entire cam chest cover. This was after I had just installed the exhaust and brakeside footboard. Even from an online discount dealer, that was still $140 for the cover and gasket, shipped.....

Like I said, good luck.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 01:14 PM
  #13  
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This idea was suggested to me: cut off the bolt head (it wasn't explained how...) and remove the derby cover, then use vice grips on the nub of the bolt to turn it out.

Has anyone used one of these things where you drill into the bolt and use an extracter? I bought one but I hesitate to use it. No instructions, for one, so I hope it's pretty self explanatory.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 01:25 PM
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I was just dealing with this on my wife's bike. Three of the derby screws were not coming off. What worked for me was taking a drill with a bit slightly larger than the thread of the screw and drilling into the head. Once the drill got down near where the thread started, the head pops off. Once they were all off, the derby cover slid off and the remaining parts of the screws came right out by hand. I tried the notch/screwdriver method first but it wasn't working for me. Good luck.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 01:28 PM
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You could use something like a dremel but it's probably easier to use an oversized drill bit to drill just enough so you separate the head from the screw. Once that's done and you remove the cover there should be enough of the screw left to get a bite with some vice grips to remove it. Kind of a common way of removing button or pan head bolts when they strip out.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Cup
I was just dealing with this on my wife's bike. Three of the derby screws were not coming off. What worked for me was taking a drill with a bit slightly larger than the thread of the screw and drilling into the head. Once the drill got down near where the thread started, the head pops off. Once they were all off, the derby cover slid off and the remaining parts of the screws came right out by hand. I tried the notch/screwdriver method first but it wasn't working for me. Good luck.
LOL I must have been typing while you posted. But I agree and think that's the easiest method.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 01:30 PM
  #17  
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Good tip guys, I'll try the drill bit thing tonight. Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 01:37 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Wabbit
I was trying to take the derby cover off and I used the #27 torx screw like I read here. 4 of the screws, no problem. The 5th one stripped. I tried to use a screw extracter but that just made the head hole bigger.

Any suggestions? Why do they use these crappy aluminum torx screws?

I was thinking of replacing the screws with stainless steel hex-bit screws. Is there any problem with this? The only issue I could think of is if the primary cover is aluminum instead of steel. That could cause the threads to strip, right? Anyone know what the primary cover is made of?

Thanks!
Had the same problem.........the last one would not come out. Of course it was the one closest to the ground so that added an extra level of difficulty. I used an easy-out..........worked like a champ. Then I went out and bought a set of stainless steel torque sets and a stick of the blue lock-tite. Not had a problem yet and it's been off at least 3 times.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 01:42 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by NC D'LUXE
LOL I must have been typing while you posted. But I agree and think that's the easiest method.
Hah, Yup. It worked for me. I also swapped out the screws when I was finished with some different heads. Going to get some chromed Allen screws eventually.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 01:44 PM
  #20  
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Had the same issue on my previous bike.

One screw ended up stripped. Still held, but not tight. Had replaced the screws with SS.

Ended up having a heli-coil installed - simple and low cost and gives you much better strength.
 
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