engine build
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,566
Likes: 2
From: Detroit
I have a 2005 TC88, I just had a 98 kit put in with cams. I was told that 98 is the biggest the stock cylinders can be bored to. I had this done at a shop so I cant answer many technical questions. It pulls like a beast.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 2
From: New Hampshire
Talk to the guys and Fuel Moto...
Motown is basically correct but other things can be done.
On the other hand I upgraded my 88ci with a cam - pipes - air intake and Power Commander III, it is faster that many stock 103's.
Cubes are good but you've got to get it to breath and suck gas to perform.
Motown is basically correct but other things can be done.
On the other hand I upgraded my 88ci with a cam - pipes - air intake and Power Commander III, it is faster that many stock 103's.
Cubes are good but you've got to get it to breath and suck gas to perform.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 9
From: North Carolina
build a bullet proof 95'' with gear drive cams, and get the headwork done and high compression pistons (pump gas still) you won't be disapointed.
the 96'' motor as you know it is the same bore as the TC88 it's just stroked. cubic inches go up by bore and stroke, and I reccomend a stock bottom end unless you wanna dump a few mor $K into trued and welded crank.
the 96'' motor as you know it is the same bore as the TC88 it's just stroked. cubic inches go up by bore and stroke, and I reccomend a stock bottom end unless you wanna dump a few mor $K into trued and welded crank.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, ND
build a bullet proof 95'' with gear drive cams, and get the headwork done and high compression pistons (pump gas still) you won't be disapointed.
the 96'' motor as you know it is the same bore as the TC88 it's just stroked. cubic inches go up by bore and stroke, and I reccomend a stock bottom end unless you wanna dump a few mor $K into trued and welded crank.
the 96'' motor as you know it is the same bore as the TC88 it's just stroked. cubic inches go up by bore and stroke, and I reccomend a stock bottom end unless you wanna dump a few mor $K into trued and welded crank.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,452
Likes: 13
From: Northern UTARD
98" is the way to go. Andrews 37 cam is awesome. I kick myself in the nuts for not doing heads, or atleast comp.releases on mine.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,566
Likes: 2
From: Detroit
I was going to just do cams but going to a 98 big bore was only 590 more...why wouldnt a guy take the cheap hp? You are going to save money since you dont have to buy a tuner so why not.
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Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 713
Likes: 55
From: Punta Gorda, Florida
2 things you didn't mention, budget and are you paying a mechanic. I put the SE 95" and an Andrews 26 cam in mine with a decking and cc'ing of the heads. Got me 80 HP and 98 ft/lb torque and did the work myself, except for the headwork, for around $1000. In hindsight, I would do what Lundee recommends, 98" boring your cylinders,Andrews 37 cam and stage II headwork, although I'm very happy with the results of my build. I have a carb as well and you can keep the stock carb with a re-jetting. If you go with gear-driven cams, you have to check crank runout before you order the cams. Crank runout cannot exceed .003". Otherwise, you can keep the chain drive and depending on mileage, replace the tensioners and use a Baisley LMR-002 oil pressure spring or upgrade your cam plate altogether. I used Hillside to do my headwork and I would HIGHLY recommend them for any machining and advice. If you go over 180 psi on the CCP, have compression releases installed in the heads. Some guys will use 190 as the magic number for CR's but I have 183 psi and the starter barks from time to time. Good luck.
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