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'06 was the last year of the cold forged crank with less than .003" acceptable runout.
( '02 was the last of the hot forged crank with the Timken 'Lefty' Bearing.)
'07 was the first cast crank with the potential run-out problems. ( Junk.)
You can run gear drive on your '06 bike, but measure run-out first. Or consider the hydraulic upgraded tensioners from Harley when you spec your new cams.
They supposedly last a long time too w/o having to worry about run-out issues.
I have read that HD went back and retroactivley corrected their tolerance specs. I don't have direct knowledge that this is true, but it's certainly the first thing to have checked. The problem is you have to take the bike out of service and check the runout THEN go buy what you can put on the bike. Takes some patience, especially with summer and trips coming up.
I am not looking to change much in the engine. I had thought of bumping up the ci. but was told that would cause heating issues so for now I am prob. going to leave it stock. Really just looking to pep it up a bit and get the sound.
Whomever told you that is a fool... cubes aren't automatically going to equate to higher temps, and often will result in the opposite. Key is to put a whole system together, rather than just piecing parts together without consideration to the whole solution. Bigger cubes means less effort for the same level of output. Have a good builder like Hillside spec out a good design, including cams, mild headwork, and big bore, and you'll be smiling for a long time to come without having to go back to the bank soon down the road to redo what you just did. It's a lot cheaper to do it once right, rather than do it again down the road.
Whomever told you that is a fool... cubes aren't automatically going to equate to higher temps, and often will result in the opposite. Key is to put a whole system together, rather than just piecing parts together without consideration to the whole solution. Bigger cubes means less effort for the same level of output. Have a good builder like Hillside spec out a good design, including cams, mild headwork, and big bore, and you'll be smiling for a long time to come without having to go back to the bank soon down the road to redo what you just did. It's a lot cheaper to do it once right, rather than do it again down the road.
Roger
+1. You will have thinner cylinder walls, but the worry there is only the fact that you can't bore the cylinder out again after the first 100k or so. Your's is air cooled. As a result your piston will be closer to it's cooling source (besides the oil, that is).
I have read that HD went back and retroactivley corrected their tolerance specs. I don't have direct knowledge that this is true, but it's certainly the first thing to have checked. The problem is you have to take the bike out of service and check the runout THEN go buy what you can put on the bike. Takes some patience, especially with summer and trips coming up.
C#
I am not too worried about the time out from riding. I work in Afghanistan so if I can get something planned out I can have it done before I get home. I have a couple of dealers close to home working on ideas for me so I will see what they come up with.
I think I will bump it up to 95ci since I would be able to afford it now. Then I shoild be able to leave it alone(Ya right).
If you're going to 95", might as well go to 98"... same costs, same effort, better results.
Roger
Yeah... the cost for the cubes per cube for the 3 extras is no big deal.
However, if you're going to spend some bucks and intend to mod the whole shebang (all at once or in pieces) then you get into 'wander about land'. If you're going to only do a little, then cams are the best 'last mod I'm doing... honest' choice. I think the 'middle ground' is where it gets messy. Personally, I think a better initial investment over cubes is head work. Then you combine bigger intake with cubes. Then you pick a cam. Of course, that's all after an air cleaner and exhaust upgrade which you're done with. Doing the work piecemeal or part at a time isn't wrong but you will spend money needlessly unless you follow that order, >I< think. It takes willpower, admittedly. Anyway, there is no silver bullet answer until you do your research and have a definite plan. The longer you go between upgrades, the more the plan tends to er... evolve... yeah, that's the ticket.
About the Crank Runout, after watching the videos below U'll see Its not the actual crank but the shaft that's NOT machined that has the run out and why its made that way
The gear is attached to the shaft. If the shaft isn't true, for whatever reason, the gear won't be true. So, you can measure runout where the gear is mounted on the shaft. I see that all of those videos have been removed. Wonder why?
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