Hyd 2007 and up. Gear drive in the sportsters.

 

I don't think kits are available complete with inside roller chains,due to the old style sprockets on the cams as used on the older twincams.
I've only seen one case reported of excessive wear on the the SE kits, so the jury is still out as to whether there really is a problem.

 

Hey guys dont want to start a **** storm but I just did this I however got the conversion kit from andrews along with the andrews cam n series which uses the roller chain all new sprockets. Before I did this i researched it pretty heavy, and found quite a few reports and pictures of guys who did the upgrade but still used the silent chain on the inner side with the new hydraulic tensioner. The outcome is this same if not worse than your stock setup. That silent chain on the inner side just tears the *** out of that new hydraulic tensioner shoe. You need to have the newer style chain on both the inner and the outer to get the long life of the hyd. tens. shoes. Kinda makes sense doesnt it . Why would you put the older style chain on the inner and a newer one on the outboard. Another awesome solution from the engineers at Harley

 

Spring tensioners were used from 99 tp 06.

 

I've got 45 k on my spring tensioners. They look brand new. No way I'm changing to the new ones. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

 

[QUOTE=jreichart;9744475]I've got 45 k on my spring tensioners. They look brand new. No way I'm changing to the new ones. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

There are numerous threads on this subject here and in the AIM forum. Read them. I have done the conversion with the HD kit.

You cannot, I repeat, cannot tell what the condition of the wear surface on your inner shoe is until you pull the cam plate. You can go to a thread in this forum and/or the AIM forum where I show pictures that prove that. The thickness of mine looked fine. The surface against the chain was pitted and starting to put little orange flakes into my oil.

I got 60k out of mine. I use syn3 oil, change it regularly and don't ride hard.

Only aftermarket hydraulic replacements offer roller chains on both sides.

Use adjustable push rods if you don't want to change your cams unless you have to (I did so I pulled the top end, too, just to check). If you install the adjustable push rods and new inner cam bearings and new spring loaded shoes it will last for at least 30k (assuming you take care of your bike) and with adjustable push rods you can change the spring loaded shoes real easy. Your cams will wear out, however, eventually.

If I had a low mileage pre '07 twinkie I would IMMEDIATELY do the inner cam bearings and adjustable push rods plus some new shoes. The hydraulic kit would not be worth it if you did this. You can then change your shoes and inspect your cams with no special tools and a little bit of experience as part of your regular maintenance and save a TON of money.

If you want to change your cams on a pre '07 then get an aftermarket hydraulic kit with roller chains just to eliminate all of the Internet rumormill causes of this problem as best you can. I think it is heat that does most of it, personally.

How does your engine get hot? Pre '07 EFI you don't have any O2 sensors. You put on pipes and a hiflow AC without a properly setup piggyback or replacement ECM installed. The inner cam bearing journals and inner shoes are what usually goes... where it's nice and hot. OR, you have HD do your tuning and you're still running EPA AFR's if you have EFI or you are too lean on your carb if you don't. HD must follow EPA guidelines (some dealers may not). How do you tell? Get it dyno'd or at least sniffed. Few spend the money, however.

HD is struggling with engine heat. Soon we will be driving water cooled bikes... and this will go away and be replaced by cooling system and sensor problems. Can't wait...

C#

 

I have read all the stories. I also read a story that they found a B-52 bomber on the moon. Based on the logic in here, 100% of Pintos blew up, and all the Suzuki Samurai's rolled into a ditch never to be seen again. Not saying the tensioners aren't a problem, they are, but not ALL of them are. For every one guy that has pics of blown apart tensioners, I bet there are 100 guys out there with double or triple the miles who have never paid attention to this or any other thread and just ride everyday without issue. Why is it so hard for some to believe that this might not be an "OMG, EVERY BIKE IS GONNA BLOW UP FROM LITTLE BITS OF PLASTIC" problem. It is an issue. I will be checking them periodically. No I'm not spending $1000 on something I don't need. And based on the couple reviews that I have seen so far, the HD hydro plates look like they might be just as bad at tearing up the inner shoe. So, based on your logic, you should immediately go out and spend another $1000 on the next great "fix". Better get on that.

So, I'm sticking with what I have for now. I will monitor them regularly, and when I feel they need replaced, I will make the decision to change to hydro or not.

 

Cut your oil filter apart at every service. Sure beets ripping the chest open every year.

 

Are you speaking of my logic? If so, you need to read what I said again. I didn't recommend any >next great< fix. I recommended the opposite that would end up making this a simple maintenance activity. I forgot to mention taking a sawsall to your filter that someone else thoughtfully included. The shop manual from HD recommends that the shoes be replaced every 25k... they just left it out of the maintenance procedures.

 

[QUOTE=jreichart;9744475]I've got 45 k on my spring tensioners. They look brand new. No way I'm changing to the new ones. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!


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One of my real good friends just had our INDY check his last week

03 RK with 28k and they told him his still looked new also, check them again at 50k is his plan.




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