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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 06:00 PM
  #11  
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pococj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pococj
Anybody [else] ever try some Loctite 620 Retaining Compound on bars? It's used to lock bearings, cylinders, etc. into housings.


Originally Posted by VETERAN75
As a maintenance tech I would not recommend retaining compound to your bars.

Clean the knurls out and reinstall bars, some blue threadlocker on the bolts would not hurt. Nothing on the knurls, let them do there job. Your bars had more than likely began to loosen before you ever hit that bump. The bump just made you pull hard enough to move em.
Wanted to ask why not, then saw I left out a word in my original post. I've used 620, or a similar compound, on apes before. It worked well, especially when the knurls were pretty much gone caused by the rider pulling the bars back when he got stopped and was worried by the bar height. We would also use a sharp center punch and a small ball pein hammer to "dimple" the bars in a few spots. The raised edges on the dimples act like the knurling.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 06:11 PM
  #12  
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was gonna answer but these OLD Fossil hands got tired just typing this.....
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 06:13 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Kowan
I use blue Loctite. On both stock bars and risers and now BR bars and Carlini risers.
Never had them move even after getting airborne hitting railroad crossings at too high a rate of speed.
Originally Posted by Kowan
No Loctite on the knurling. Just a dab on the riser clamp bolts.
Since your bars moved, you might want to remove the top clamp and clean both the knurling and risers.
The knurling will act as heavy duty sand paper or filing and you more than likely have metal shavings that would keep the knurling from biting into the risers.

Talk a buddy into helping you hold the bars while you clean off any shaved metal pieces.
Originally Posted by tmac00333
Same thing happened to me, on the interstate. I used blue loctite, haven't had a problem since. I can still move them if i have to


Yes, yes, and yes. BLUE Loctite (or Permatex)
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 06:36 PM
  #14  
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Happened to me Saturday...about 40 miles from home. Was bad except they moved far enough to mess up my view thru the mirrors. Got home and grabbed the torque wrench and both back bolts were not tight enough....check it out on the next ride.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 07:12 PM
  #15  
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Happened to me too. Scared the crap outta me. I'd never had that happen before. Now I have a nice torque wrench and I check bolts every couple weeks. Haven't had trouble since.

Someone had said to me to use strips of a beer can wrapped around the bar, then torque the risers. 1in wide 3in long. Never did it though. The knurls are there for a reason.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 07:31 PM
  #16  
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Are they Carlini risers? they should have setscrews installed in the bottom already. That is if the dealer didn't remove them. Never had a problem with mine moving with the set screws there.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 02:23 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by pococj
Quote:
Originally Posted by pococj
Anybody [else] ever try some Loctite 620 Retaining Compound on bars? It's used to lock bearings, cylinders, etc. into housings.




Wanted to ask why not, then saw I left out a word in my original post. I've used 620, or a similar compound, on apes before. It worked well, especially when the knurls were pretty much gone caused by the rider pulling the bars back when he got stopped and was worried by the bar height. We would also use a sharp center punch and a small ball pein hammer to "dimple" the bars in a few spots. The raised edges on the dimples act like the knurling.
I can see using it if the knurls are gone. You can probably put some knurling back in with a hacksaw, file, or very coarse sand paper. I figure getting the compund back off would be a hassle too. If you're not planning on move the bars for a very long time you could use some 7018 loctite.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 09:59 PM
  #18  
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For those who suggested loctite on the riser clamp bolts, do you loctite all pinch clamp bolts and bolts with lockwashers also? Bar slippage is usually a knurling issue. The torque is reapplied for seating moreso than the bolts backing off being the problem.
 
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