Oopsie umm... nevermind

 

2012 103 Fatboy

 

Buy an old bike that has the frame/suspension that you want to go fast with.

Get and SnS engine (or Patrick or whatever) and a 6 speed tranny. Throw away the old bike's pulleys, engine, and tranny and install the new stuff.

Get a dyno tune.

Eat your buddies up from bar to bar. If that ain't enough add nitrous and/or a super or turbo charger. If that ain't enough go get a metric for half the money that will blow the doors off of everything you just did even in stock configuration.

Ride your existing bike when you want to ride.

That's what I think.

 

Was talking to a buddy of mine that has done some builds over the years about the FM 107 BB Kit. He told me that his concern is the bore would be ok if the cylinders were made like S&S or Revolution Performance but they aren't. They are boring stock cylinders out to 3.938" & that makes everything way to thin to have longer lifespans. What do you guys think that have experience in this type of stuff cuz I have no idea?

 

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I like to post facts, not just by giving number.
Below are dyno sheets of the 3 Softails the Son and I've had.

These sheets will show U what a stock motor makes and what ours made with STG1 and Cams.. All our bikes has the SERT tuner, SE/AC and dynoed.

Here's a sheet of my 07 base run before stg1,SERT and dyno. She made 79TQ and 63HP in stock form








Here's my sheet after stage 1 and 26h Cams.
She made 91TQ and 80HP. a better line from 2k -4k than stock







Here is my Sons 07 Deuce with 204's and BR's 2-2. Also notice the TQ scale on the right side of the sheet is NOT the same line as the HP on the left. U have to come in from each side to read the numbers. Hate that when they print the sheet that way.








Here is my Sons 09 NT also with SE204 and BSL's and the 4* advance gear.
Compare the sheets U can see the really big difference the BSL's VS the BR's2-2's sheet above.
The BSL's under 3k is 17-18# of TQ less than the BR's2-2. So the pipes do/can make a BIG diff.









So on our bikes all the base run all have been around 80# TQ and 65HP..

I have the Rush Slip-on Vs both of his had V&H's this shows that there is only 3-4#TQ peak difference between the full systems and slip-ons. Also my Rush slip made just a tad better peak HP..

Also if U look at the 07 Deuce sheet the 204's with BR's2-2 was a great set up overall.. remember he did install the 4* advance gear on both of bikes to move the line to the left.


Hope this helps and it will show what the motors really do make..



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if your worried about the fuel moto 107 check some of these google hits

https://www.google.com/#hl=en&sclien...w=1024&bih=590

 

I did the 103" build on my Blackline with the Crossbacks, and the 255 cams, and a nice head port clean up and my outcome was 115tq and 101 hp Very pleased with the outcome. The Blackline being such a light bike to begin with now screams and I am still getting 48mpg.

 

The standard SE 103 with head are a pretty good build for LOW_MID TQ..
One thing is the CCP is still around 203-205, which can lead to pinging and they should have CR installed to make it easier on the starting system..

U have to deciede where U want U power... In the LOW-MID rpms or the MED_HIGH rpms
Been said Many,, Many times U can't have both......

If ur going to do a total build U really don't need some of the crap U'll get in here, sometimes U'll get just a lot of talk of what each one of us did and most think that theirs is the best way to go.

Just pick who U want to build U motor.. then talk to him/them about Ur wants/Needs and Look at the Dyno sheets from his/their builds....

Simple,,, NO,, but the PRO builders know a lot more than the average/most members in here...

Plus U have to have all the correct parts/mods IE( cams, pistons and heads)to go together for a good road worthy build that will last a long time...

If U'r like me,, I'd hate to build something that I have to run Octane Booster all the time to keep it from pinging.
And I wouldn't want something that blowed up every 5k...

That's why U need a builder that has a great proven record...

UNLESS,,,, U have more money than Sense and don't mind having Ur bike in the garage being rebuilt all the time..


..

 

Don't ever put too much stock in that "buddy of mine said" ****. Call Jamie at fuelmoto and ask him. He's a certified Harley mechanic, and has been in his own business for years. He's very well respected around here and will tell you everything you need to know about the thickness of your cylinder walls doing a 107". Axtell makes a 106" kit, and so does S & S. If 107" leaves the walls too thin, so would the 106's. Get your information from "pros", not shade-tree mechanics.

 

Look. You can spend a little bit at a time and each increase will cost you downtime on the bike.
Go as big bore as you can afford. I went 106 but I had my heads decked,oversized valves,tw6-6 cams,blah,blah,blah.
In the end I got 107hp/115tq. My motor hits 100tq at 2300 rpm and never drops under it. That translates to kicking *** on a Harley as far as I'm concerned. I'm glad I did everything all at once. SE compensator,jagg 10 row oil cooler.
The stock clutch is still holding up alright so hopefully it won't die before winter.
Anyways,I suggest spending whatever you can afford and do it all at once.
Or buy a big cube motor,pull your old one and keep it on the shelf in case you decide to sell,then put the stocker back.
Or you can boost your stock motor. That will be good for 30-40 rwhp