Should have equal threads showing on both adjusters if adjusted correctly. Also want just the slightest bit of slack when throttle closed. I always tighten both adjusters at the same time checking for good spring return as i tighten.

 

No grease.......gonna try all these suggestions

 

So it seems the grip is not rotating on the bars well because bars are just tiny fraction thicker than inch. Can i grind them down slightly? So close so far

 

If you can, I'd try to grind down the inside of the grip.... that way if you get a grip in the future that is a little larger, then the issue won't be too loose of a grip!!

 

Good point even the plastic right how do i grind plastic damn this sucks

 

Get some emery paper, find a way to fasten it to a longish stick, insert in drill and move up and down inside the grip ... shouldn't take too long, so don't overdo it. Finish it off with a very fine grade to get it smooth.

 

Great advice thank you

 

If the bars are thicker wont all grips in the future be tight. So the solution wuould be to grind down the bars. A piece of cloth sand paper wrapped around the bar and spun carefully should take even amounts off to get it to right thickness just keep testing it as you go. also since your bars are copper and have no clear coat are you worried about the build up of natural patina under the grip? may be an issue.

 

Good point got the sand paper and heading home to try it.

 

I'd go with the suggestion about the bend from the cable adjusters at the twist-grip. My Sportster has always been a bit tricky in this area - it's why I relocated the front indicators, they caused a deflection in the cables which was enough to stop the 'snap-back'.
And the Slim was just the same when I changed the bars on that.

Another possibility... Are the new bars slotted for wiring? if so, make sure the twist-grip housing isn't sitting over the slot - it can cause the clamp to pinch up on the twist-grip when you tighten the screws.