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Cam dilemma/question...

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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 08:26 AM
  #11  
lorenski's Avatar
lorenski
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From: So. Austin
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just my 0.02˘. I'm old and slow. But my stock 103 acted like a much older dog. It was so slow when I got back home from a ride I'd have to mow the lawn again. It was so weak I'd engage the starter to get up hills.

I installed the standard stage 1 SE-AC/SE-255/SE pipes and a SE race tuner/Dyno. Now everyone just gets in my way and I have to go around them too save my brake pads. While they are researching and mod'ng and tuning all the time, I just roll on. I totally picked up my mpg's from 33-36 to 40-43 and no longer requires the SE-******* Heat Shield as it runs much much cooler.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 09:52 AM
  #12  
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OFOH
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Going through the same issue here, only difference is I happened to win the bid on a set of fairy new 255 cams on Ebay. Wondered if I should do head work and found out that if i do heat work then I should got to the 103 kit. All I want is a little bit more grunt and to cool the motor a bit. After talking with Hillside, and I would suggest that you call Hillside and talk with Scott(I believe that is who I talked with) he helped me out a bunch. If I wanted to build a moster build then do head work and bigger jugs and everything else. He also told me that all the Harley motors that last a long time are ones that are pretty much stock. Going with the 255 cams would give me more low end and that is what I want. Head work would not give me much with out doing a lot of other work. The only thing I would change would be my cam selection. After doing a lot of reading and searching, the andrews 48 cam is much the same as the 255 only it hangs on a little bit more on rpms and helps a little bit more with cooling than the 255's. I am going to put the train in the shop in the next week or so and do the 255's with a tune, I have vance and hines 2 into 2 big radious pipes, and would luv to go with the 2 into 1 but the boss won't let me, lol. would luv to go with the heavy breather but guess I will stay with the SE foot ball air cleaner. Has a SE race tuner in also. Good luck and maybe you should call hillside and talk with them. Seems like they knew what they were talking about and wasn't all about sales. stay safe
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 01:01 PM
  #13  
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cwsharp
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From: Utah
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Originally Posted by OFOH
Going through the same issue here, only difference is I happened to win the bid on a set of fairy new 255 cams on Ebay. Wondered if I should do head work and found out that if i do heat work then I should got to the 103 kit. All I want is a little bit more grunt and to cool the motor a bit. After talking with Hillside, and I would suggest that you call Hillside and talk with Scott(I believe that is who I talked with) he helped me out a bunch. If I wanted to build a moster build then do head work and bigger jugs and everything else. He also told me that all the Harley motors that last a long time are ones that are pretty much stock. Going with the 255 cams would give me more low end and that is what I want. Head work would not give me much with out doing a lot of other work. The only thing I would change would be my cam selection. After doing a lot of reading and searching, the andrews 48 cam is much the same as the 255 only it hangs on a little bit more on rpms and helps a little bit more with cooling than the 255's. I am going to put the train in the shop in the next week or so and do the 255's with a tune, I have vance and hines 2 into 2 big radious pipes, and would luv to go with the 2 into 1 but the boss won't let me, lol. would luv to go with the heavy breather but guess I will stay with the SE foot ball air cleaner. Has a SE race tuner in also. Good luck and maybe you should call hillside and talk with them. Seems like they knew what they were talking about and wasn't all about sales. stay safe
It depends upon what you mean by "head work". If you are just giong to improve flow without modifying the valve sizes and increasing the amount of potential lift then you will notice an improvement without doing anything else. If you are wanting to build a serious engine then you would need to coordinate the throttle body size, the "head work", the cam, and the exhaust to get the maximum potential. If you increase the amount of air/fuel that you are putting into the engine by any great amount then you can take advantage of more cubes. You can also take advantage of the cubes by carefully selecting the duration and overlap of the cam.

Many will recommend getting SE heads for intermediate level head work and tell you to just bolt them on.

Anyone that doesn't do this for a living and that doesn't take their stuff to the track isn't going to be the best choice for a consultant on a large engine investment. It takes a lot of experience to get the proper blend of this stuff on a Harley and the guys that are really good aren't going to spill their secrets and like anything HD, there are as many opinions as there are you know whats.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 07:35 PM
  #14  
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gregmay
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I put a set of 255s in my road king, got them from scott at hillside. Take offs from another bake and he gave me a fair price. Good people. I like the 255s as they fit my riding style, lots of torque for two up riding and you dont have to wind the crap out of it as the power comes on early. Some say they fall off fast but im riding a touring bike and tend to shift around 2800- 3000 rpms. It is a 96 and starts fine hot, doesnt ping and runs cooler than stock, se air cleaner and pcIII with a map from fuel moto. Less shifting, no problems passing, did increast the valvetrain noise, not too bad take the windshield off and you cant hear it. And climbs mountians like they arent even there.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:47 AM
  #15  
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bolt54
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From: NYC
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I did Andrew's 48s last winter with a PC V and a D & D Fatcat (used, purchased on forum) that works really nice on my FXSTC. Fuel mileage is about the same and it runs cooler, pulls best in 3rd and 4th it seems, really just walks away from everything around me
 
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 01:06 PM
  #16  
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Sgt_Jim
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From: Central Jersey
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Check out the Wood TW-222, $390 so a bit more expensive, but they're boasting a +20HP/+22TQ on the dyno sheets
 
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 01:52 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by str8shuutr45
Thanks for your virtual kick in the ***...my head is spinning now with more questions...compression, cams, exhaust, hot start, cold start, low end torque vs mid range, HP....at least it's going to be a long cold winter for Q&A. I hope to have a decision made by spring.

For the rest - thanks for the input on the cams...next quest (ion) is concerning exhaust....Bassani Road Rage or V&H pro-pipe and what cam and why? Told you it wasn't going to be easy....

There are many articles on cams and how to pick the right one..

Mostly if U want help in here U need to say How U ride most of the time..

Do U put around in the 2-4 k rpm range or do U ride a lot of Hi-ways and need Ur TQ at higher rpm's, like between 3-6k rpms.??.
It makes all the diff in the world on how U ride as to what cam to install.

Also do U mostly ride 2 up or Solo .???


Most owners are happy with just doing the Stg1 and cams, U don't really need more,, unless Ur a real power freak and want MORE POWER..




.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 04:13 PM
  #18  
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spydyr
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From: southern IL
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I've been lurking the cams posts for a while, and have been narrowed to the Andrews 26H & Woods 222 for a little while now. I'll probably go with the Woods, they seem to be a better boost for low-mid, which is what I'm after. I have no desire for more cc's, so Stage 1 V&H BSS + Woods will suffice..... for a while.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 04:46 PM
  #19  
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So I put my bike in storage yesterday because of Sandy. Was chatting with a couple of guys that have softails- they suggested I go ***** to the wall and go big bore with the 255 cams. If I stay SE it won't impact my warranty... Food for thought
Either way I have six freaking months to decide...
 
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 05:04 PM
  #20  
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2010Deluxeguy
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From: colorado
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remember, you have to have HD do the work to keep the warranty in tact. Also remember, it only voids the warranty if the cam can be determined to be the cause of a breakdown
 
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