Working on a 2011 Fatboy - What to expect?
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City, MO
Working on a 2011 Fatboy - What to expect?
Hello all,
I am new to the forums. I just bought a 2011 Fatboy...I've owned several fun vehicles and I do most all of my own wrenching on them. I've never worked on a motorcycle though...I would imagine if you can work on a car or truck the general idea is the same on a motorcycle.
Just curious, what should I expect? Are there special tools I'm going to need to work on my motorcycle that I wouldn't have from working on cars? What is the generally recommended maintenance that I should adhere to? While it would be easy to take it to the local HD Dealership, I am not willing to pay the prices they charge and I would rather learn and do it myself anyhow.
Just curious on what to expect. I don't even have the bike yet, so I'm trying to learn as much as I can.
Also, where can I find good tutorials on normal wrenching? I use the internet a lot when I work on my vehicles. I figure if I can change spark plugs and pull superchargers off of a Ford Lightning (you need 6 elbows to change all the plugs), I can work on the Fatboy!
Thanks for any tips and input.
I am new to the forums. I just bought a 2011 Fatboy...I've owned several fun vehicles and I do most all of my own wrenching on them. I've never worked on a motorcycle though...I would imagine if you can work on a car or truck the general idea is the same on a motorcycle.
Just curious, what should I expect? Are there special tools I'm going to need to work on my motorcycle that I wouldn't have from working on cars? What is the generally recommended maintenance that I should adhere to? While it would be easy to take it to the local HD Dealership, I am not willing to pay the prices they charge and I would rather learn and do it myself anyhow.
Just curious on what to expect. I don't even have the bike yet, so I'm trying to learn as much as I can.
Also, where can I find good tutorials on normal wrenching? I use the internet a lot when I work on my vehicles. I figure if I can change spark plugs and pull superchargers off of a Ford Lightning (you need 6 elbows to change all the plugs), I can work on the Fatboy!
Thanks for any tips and input.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,048
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
Not being rude..but buy the Service Manual. it's the best $50 you'll ever spend.
T-20, T-25, T-40, T-45 torx, a set of metric sockets, and a bigass hammer.
you can expect your turn signal wires to be molded in to the turn signal housings inside the handlebars, which makes it just a touch more of a PITA to change.
Owners manual i think includes all the details of what gets changed at the 1,000 mile service..and really it's not worth the $350+ that the dealer charges
NOTE TO WRITE DOWN: When changing your oil, you're going to notice a plug on the bottom of the engine. Never touch that damn plug. You'll break things. The oil drain is actually located just below the oil tank, basically in the side-bottom of the frame, dip-stick side.
If you ever remove the rear tire, or mess with the belt, it's a good idea to get one of those laser-straighteners or something to ensure the belt isn't in the least bit twisted.
If it doesn't come loose, use the hammer.
Your fork springs are in a self contained cylinder (the plain aluminum part) of your forks.. you can remove the forks and disassemble them without blowing your fork springs all over the room.
Use a piece of fishing line and some goo-gone and remove the reflectors from the forks and the rear. you'll like the way it looks better if you do. they're just taped on anyways.
If you put on pipes, you don't need a fuel tuner.. if you change your pipes AND intake, you'll need a fuel tuner.
36psi front tire, 42psi rear tire.
i like beer.
T-20, T-25, T-40, T-45 torx, a set of metric sockets, and a bigass hammer.
you can expect your turn signal wires to be molded in to the turn signal housings inside the handlebars, which makes it just a touch more of a PITA to change.
Owners manual i think includes all the details of what gets changed at the 1,000 mile service..and really it's not worth the $350+ that the dealer charges
NOTE TO WRITE DOWN: When changing your oil, you're going to notice a plug on the bottom of the engine. Never touch that damn plug. You'll break things. The oil drain is actually located just below the oil tank, basically in the side-bottom of the frame, dip-stick side.
If you ever remove the rear tire, or mess with the belt, it's a good idea to get one of those laser-straighteners or something to ensure the belt isn't in the least bit twisted.
If it doesn't come loose, use the hammer.
Your fork springs are in a self contained cylinder (the plain aluminum part) of your forks.. you can remove the forks and disassemble them without blowing your fork springs all over the room.
Use a piece of fishing line and some goo-gone and remove the reflectors from the forks and the rear. you'll like the way it looks better if you do. they're just taped on anyways.
If you put on pipes, you don't need a fuel tuner.. if you change your pipes AND intake, you'll need a fuel tuner.
36psi front tire, 42psi rear tire.
i like beer.
Thread Starter
|
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City, MO
Jim -
Thanks so much for the response. That wasn't rude at all, those are the types of suggestions I WANT. The bike already has pipes and intake, AND a tuner.
I too love beer. I home brew quite often and have some pretty good stuff at the house. It'll help my temper when I bust my knuckles working on the bike :-)
Thanks so much for the response. That wasn't rude at all, those are the types of suggestions I WANT. The bike already has pipes and intake, AND a tuner.
I too love beer. I home brew quite often and have some pretty good stuff at the house. It'll help my temper when I bust my knuckles working on the bike :-)
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 705
Likes: 8
From: southern IL
Sgt Jim covered it nicely, but I got a few more additions:
- not sure why Jim said "metric", but you'll need standard wrenches, with the exception of brake banjo bolts & tires (11/16" will work on front axle but rear will be I believe 36mm)
- torque wrench (several will be better, to go across a wide variety of settings, from like 40 in/lb to 150ft/lbs)
- oil filter wrench (harley seems to have the corner market on the only one that fits)
- shock spanner wrench (again with the corner market)
I think that about covers it. My 2009 has 50K+ mile on her, and the only thing I've "had done" is changing the tires & 1 stator under warranty. She purrs like a lion, so I must be doing something right with all the additions I've made. Not hard, just read the manual, search the forums, think about it twice before you do it once and you'll be fine.
- not sure why Jim said "metric", but you'll need standard wrenches, with the exception of brake banjo bolts & tires (11/16" will work on front axle but rear will be I believe 36mm)
- torque wrench (several will be better, to go across a wide variety of settings, from like 40 in/lb to 150ft/lbs)
- oil filter wrench (harley seems to have the corner market on the only one that fits)
- shock spanner wrench (again with the corner market)
I think that about covers it. My 2009 has 50K+ mile on her, and the only thing I've "had done" is changing the tires & 1 stator under warranty. She purrs like a lion, so I must be doing something right with all the additions I've made. Not hard, just read the manual, search the forums, think about it twice before you do it once and you'll be fine.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City, MO
Cool. I have a Craftsman tool box full of wrenches, screwdrivers, and hammers (large and small haha). I figured there might be a few specialty items that I wouldn't have. Like I said, I've done most all of my own vehicle wrenching, so I was just curious about the bike.
A bike jack. Yay or nay? Necessary to do the basics or no?
A bike jack. Yay or nay? Necessary to do the basics or no?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,048
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
I just said metric because of those odd bolts on there that you find that are 10mm or 13mm.. if he's working on vehicles already, i'm sure he's already got the standards
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,493
Likes: 94
From: Belgium
You will need a T27 Torx for the derby cover!!
Sgt Jim forgot about that one. And get the service manual for your bike as he said.
Sgt Jim forgot about that one. And get the service manual for your bike as he said.
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Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Kansas City, MO
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,048
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
What do you mean different manuals? There's the owners manual that came with your bike, the service manual that tells you how to tear everything apart and put it together, and the parts manual, which lists part numbers for practically everything on your bike.. just make sure you get the year for your bike
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,618
Likes: 5,215
From: Green Country
Yeah, get a jack. J&S makes one, so does Harbour Freight, and I think Pitbull. I use the Sears/Craftsman yellow floor jack...
For some basic "how-to" check here:http://www.dudeworld.com.au/HOWTO.HTML
For more technical detail, check here:
http://www.harley-performance.com/index.html
and here:
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/
Enjoy reading, and welcome!
For some basic "how-to" check here:http://www.dudeworld.com.au/HOWTO.HTML
For more technical detail, check here:
http://www.harley-performance.com/index.html
and here:
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/
Enjoy reading, and welcome!