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Signed on to see what you find out. Number one after setting is bad gas in the form of water collection from warm and cool days causing inside of tank to sweat. Need to make sure no water is still in the tank. You pulled fuel pump. What did sock look like. Needs to be good with no holes. The area 360 around butterfly were it is shut needs to be clean. It provides 70% of idle air and the pintle does the rest. Never adjust the stop. Be real careful about cleaning it. Do not spray hard up in it since it will drive crude up past o-ring into step motor and cause it to hang when the cleaner dries. Do not grease it..doubt air flow could move it and it's just an air opening no different then cracking throttle. When you peer up and key on and off you should see it wobble freely down to plug air hole and then pull back to open loop idle position. How did the holes you talk about in the fuel line get there? From rubbing tank? If fuel pump runs it should be OK but idle pressure and wot pressure are the same. Around 65psi . If it is low it will cause it to die at idle or not even want to stop. However there is alway excess unless filter is stopped up and a real small hole in line usually will not affect it since the relief valve is pretty much always open I think but could affect it by reducing power at WOT.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Apr 7, 2013 at 02:18 PM.
dont know if this helps , but, i have always been told, when i work on my ride and she doesnt run right afterwards then i need to go over everything i did to see what i did wrong...
i have found this out to be more true more times then not
hope it helps
Very wise advice, it is actually part of what helped me solve the problem.
Started investigating the speed sensor being the issue, read about it causing the signals to not cancel as well as play a role in stalling. Seem very unrelated, but I guess all those sensors have a little input into how the engine is running. Anyway, went down to the dealer to pick up a new sensor, and on the way home got to thinking. When I wired in the new speedo, I just connected it directly to the sensor. DUH! Now the sensor is not providing any input to the ECM, and the computer is probably reading it as a bad sensor. Switched the connector back to stock, and she runs just fine. Now I just need to splice my new speedo wires to the stock wires and I should be fine. Fingers crossed, but I think that is what the issue is.
Thanks for all the help guys! This forum is a great place for info, and it probably would have taken me a lot longer to find the issue without the wealth of knowledge here. Ride safe!
Very wise advice, it is actually part of what helped me solve the problem.
Started investigating the speed sensor being the issue, read about it causing the signals to not cancel as well as play a role in stalling. Seem very unrelated, but I guess all those sensors have a little input into how the engine is running. Anyway, went down to the dealer to pick up a new sensor, and on the way home got to thinking. When I wired in the new speedo, I just connected it directly to the sensor. DUH! Now the sensor is not providing any input to the ECM, and the computer is probably reading it as a bad sensor. Switched the connector back to stock, and she runs just fine. Now I just need to splice my new speedo wires to the stock wires and I should be fine. Fingers crossed, but I think that is what the issue is.
Thanks for all the help guys! This forum is a great place for info, and it probably would have taken me a lot longer to find the issue without the wealth of knowledge here. Ride safe!
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