When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i seem to be having issues with exhaust leaks, i managed to stop the muffler leak but now both headers leak at the jugs. new se gaskets, proper torque....
has anyone ever doubled up on gaskets?
would like to leave using a sealant on the jugs/headers as a second last resort.
The SE gaskets are so thin if the face of your header pipe and the flange of your exhaust port are a little off you will gap and leak. What kind of exhaust do you have?
Honestly if you dont have a big bore with full port and polish heads then using stock gaskets arent going to rob any performance. They always seal, you never leak on stockers unless your flange nuts loosen up.
Problems like this are one reason you need to seat the header and get it dead square in the ports before moving downstream with the bolt tightening. In the end though it could just be variation in the exhaust manufacturing and if its a 2 into 1 they sometimes fight one another on the port fit.
Originally Posted by goats
i seem to be having issues with exhaust leaks, i managed to stop the muffler leak but now both headers leak at the jugs. new se gaskets, proper torque....
has anyone ever doubled up on gaskets?
would like to leave using a sealant on the jugs/headers as a second last resort.
Last edited by Motown Strag; Apr 28, 2013 at 07:12 PM.
Aren't SE gaskets smaller (thinner) than the originals? I've heard of people doubling up on them to get a good seal.
Permatex Copper is a good choice for extra sealant.
I'm running a set of Bassani pipes on my Train. The Bassani's don't allow me to install stock cone shaped exhaust gaskets and I have to use the flat Screamin Eagles. I also had exhaust leaks. Doubling up the gaskets solved the problem.
The SE gaskets are so thin if the face of your header pipe and the flange of your exhaust port are a little off you will gap and leak. What kind of exhaust do you have?
Honestly if you dont have a big bore with full port and polish heads then using stock gaskets arent going to rob any performance. They always seal, you never leak on stockers unless your flange nuts loosen up.
Problems like this are one reason you need to seat the header and get it dead square in the ports before moving downstream with the bolt tightening. In the end though it could just be variation in the exhaust manufacturing and if its a 2 into 1 they sometimes fight one another on the port fit.
2-1 rush on a 2011 blackline
i tried starting with the headers first but ran into issues with the muffler and mounting bracket lining up right.
i have redone everything several times to get everything to line up properly.
the first time i installed them was with the old se gaskets and i dont think it leaked at the headers but i cant guarantee that.
at this point it may be a little more difficult to redo as i used a sealant on the exhaust union as it was leaking but if i have to take it apart i will.
i am tempted to try the stock gaskets as you suggested with the hopes of avoiding disassembling the exhaust pipe from the headers but i also realize some short cuts are really the long way around things.
if the headers are fighting one another what would you suggest?
Allot of aftermarket exhausts have a thick header flange and with the thick stock gaskets some guys cant get the nuts started on the studs.
As for the other slip joints in your system they will carbon up soon so don't worry too much, you can also add clamps if needed under the heat shield if they continue to leak.
As for the headers you can double up the SE gaskets and they will still be thinner than stock. That might fix it but it depends on how much your header flange is out of square with the port.
A sealant should not be necessary, just bite the bullet, take it apart and reinstall it with either the doubled SE gaskets ($30 for gaskets now) or the stock gaskets. You can re-seal the slip joint when you have it apart if you want.
I know it sucks but if you get it settled in and snugged down it will be fine for the life of the bike or until you take it off aside from tightening the flange nuts once a year.
the harley manual also suggested permatex copper if a sealant must be used (must be o2 sensor safe) but i wanted to leave that as a last resort.
It doesn't take much, in fact hardly any at all.
Even the stock gaskets can be a tight squeeze getting them in without deforming.
I just put a dab of the Permatex Copper on my finger and just lightly coated the outside of the gaskets.
After that they pretty much just slid right in.
I did the same on the inside once they were seated, just a light coating.
I even used a clean rag and wiped off any excess.
Like anything else, just take your time.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.