adjustable pushrods
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 970
Likes: 19
From: Philippines
Rkdug20,
I installed the exact same setup as you described in my 03 Train. SE Hydraulic tensioner system, 203 cams, SE lifters, and SE adjustable pushrods. The pushrod adjustment is 2.5 turns past Zero lash regardless of cam size.
Notes:
(1) I always soak new lifters in oil overnight prior to installation. This is not necessary but it gives me a little peace of mind knowing that there is some lubrication present during the initial start-up.
(2) If the oil pump is not aligned properly, you could find that you do not have any oil pressure.
(3) I had to readjust my pushrods after about 1,000 miles. Seems that the lifter springs settled-in slightly. I noticed this by a ticking sound that started occurring once the engine heated up to operating temperature. The pushrod re-adjustment solved the problem.
(4) Use lots of Assembly Lube.
If you have any questions shoot me a mail at olongapo2@gmail.com.
I installed the exact same setup as you described in my 03 Train. SE Hydraulic tensioner system, 203 cams, SE lifters, and SE adjustable pushrods. The pushrod adjustment is 2.5 turns past Zero lash regardless of cam size.
Notes:
(1) I always soak new lifters in oil overnight prior to installation. This is not necessary but it gives me a little peace of mind knowing that there is some lubrication present during the initial start-up.
(2) If the oil pump is not aligned properly, you could find that you do not have any oil pressure.
(3) I had to readjust my pushrods after about 1,000 miles. Seems that the lifter springs settled-in slightly. I noticed this by a ticking sound that started occurring once the engine heated up to operating temperature. The pushrod re-adjustment solved the problem.
(4) Use lots of Assembly Lube.
If you have any questions shoot me a mail at olongapo2@gmail.com.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,337
Likes: 4
From: Sunny South Florida
I almost agree with the above.
Soaking the lifters is NOT enough. Always pump them up. Take an oil can and put the nozzle up against the hole in the side of the lifter and pump it up until the oil flows out of the top of the lifter before dropping them in. Once you drop them in, it will bleed down a bunch but only until the gap around the lifter is full, more oil in the lifter means less time to pump up and less clatter and damage at first start.
I totally agree with the pump. Spend the money and get the aligning bolts, they are the only way to be sure.
Number 3 above typically only happens when you are changing valves and springs, you should be fine and for number 4, pay attention to the instruction manuals, the oil pump does not need nor should get any lube, only oil, that also goes for all O rings. Lube causes things to go together tighter and possible mis-aligned. Metal to metal surfaces only in this case.
Soaking the lifters is NOT enough. Always pump them up. Take an oil can and put the nozzle up against the hole in the side of the lifter and pump it up until the oil flows out of the top of the lifter before dropping them in. Once you drop them in, it will bleed down a bunch but only until the gap around the lifter is full, more oil in the lifter means less time to pump up and less clatter and damage at first start.
I totally agree with the pump. Spend the money and get the aligning bolts, they are the only way to be sure.
Number 3 above typically only happens when you are changing valves and springs, you should be fine and for number 4, pay attention to the instruction manuals, the oil pump does not need nor should get any lube, only oil, that also goes for all O rings. Lube causes things to go together tighter and possible mis-aligned. Metal to metal surfaces only in this case.
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