When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I suppose you could remove the floorboards from the mounts (where they pivot) and remount them with longer bolts to the rear of the tabs instead of between them. I would use a spacer in the space where the mounts were to prevent from crushing them closed. You might get an inch of rearward improvement. Otherwise I think you will have to fabricate new mounts
I've moved floorboards forward but the same procedure can be used to relocate them rearward also. Your floorboards are composed of two items, the floorboard insert, and the floorboard pan which connects to brackets on the frame.
-Remove your floorboards from the bike and remove the inserts from the pans.
-Turn the floorboard pans over. Each floorboard pan has two brackets welded onto it. Using a grinder, grind the welds and remove the brackets for the underside of each pan.
-Mount the floorboard pan brackets back onto the bike.
-Reposition the floorboards in the desired location and check all clearances.
-Tack weld the pans to the brackets then remove them from the bike and do the final welding on the work bench. Do not overheat the metal or it will distort preventing a proper fit.
This is an easy Mod. Takes a little time and elbow-grease.
I've moved floorboards forward but the same procedure can be used to relocate them rearward also. Your floorboards are composed of two items, the floorboard insert, and the floorboard pan which connects to brackets on the frame.
-Remove your floorboards from the bike and remove the inserts from the pans.
-Turn the floorboard pans over. Each floorboard pan has two brackets welded onto it. Using a grinder, grind the welds and remove the brackets for the underside of each pan.
-Mount the floorboard pan brackets back onto the bike.
-Reposition the floorboards in the desired location and check all clearances.
-Tack weld the pans to the brackets then remove them from the bike and do the final welding on the work bench. Do not overheat the metal or it will distort preventing a proper fit.
This is an easy Mod. Takes a little time and elbow-grease.
Yours is definitely the better way. If I were dead serious about moving the floorboards, your way is how I would do it.
I think these lift brackets would move them back the width of the bracket.
I want to move the floor boards back on my crossbones so I may do the mod discussed above. The only other alternative is banana boards which give you 4" to the rear but I just dont like the looks.
Last edited by Scott Hall; Aug 31, 2013 at 12:07 PM.
Thanks for the suggestions. I was hoping for a simple bolt on kit like the ones to move them forward or out. I'll have to ponder the welding thing. Gotta make sure the jiffy stand can still be deployed and stowed.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.