front end wobbles
If you're going to take the front wheel off anyway, might as well replace the wheel bearings while it's out. Just my $0.02
headset bearings.. if they havnt been tightened up since new its most likely the culprit .. I had same problem had them set at Harley when getting it serviced and all was good.. now I have a springer and they need constant adjusting like every 10k or so .. ill put money on it being headset bearings
My bet is it is the obvious. Tire. When the tire is worn,the flat spot keeps getting wider. If the flat is wide enough to be near the wear ribs, it also must be terrible in the turns. (mine was). When you come off the throttle, it's steering from the back. Also while the front is up, make sure by turning the and moving in a rocking motion, that the bearing are fine. Not sure if your 07 has the wide double row bearing, but if it does they are good for 100K+ miles. Mine have 40K and are like new and I just sold wheels off a Fatboy that had 100+k on them and they were still like new. Also check your fall away. Keep it to a minimum. The head bearings are tapered roller bearing which do not need a lot of preload, just enough to remove the play. Too much will cause them to make a clack when you hit a bump and being tight will actually make it wobble due to you overcorrecting, especially with those narrow bars. Sounds opposite what you would think and totally different then the ball bearing system of old. All that caster you have makes this bike stable. Does not corner for crap but straight line is fine.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 6, 2013 at 10:44 AM.
My bet is it is the obvious. Tire. When the tire is worn,the flat spot keeps getting wider. If the flat is wide enough to be near the wear ribs, it also must be terrible in the turns. (mine was). When you come off the throttle, it's steering from the back. Also while the front is up, make sure by turning the and moving in a rocking motion, that the bearing are fine. Not sure if your 07 has the wide double row bearing, but if it does they are good for 100K+ miles. Mine have 40K and are like new and I just sold wheels off a Fatboy that had 100+k on them and they were still like new. Also check your fall away. Keep it to a minimum. The head bearings are tapered roller bearing which do not need a lot of preload, just enough to remove the play. Too much will cause them to make a clack when you hit a bump and being tight will actually make it wobble due to you overcorrecting, especially with those narrow bars. Sounds opposite what you would think and totally different then the ball bearing system of old. All that caster you have makes this bike stable. Does not corner for crap but straight line is fine.
hope OP figures it out and posts what the problem actually was
I just went through this and it was the neck bearing. Performed the fall away adjustment per specs in the service manual and all is good.
Possible issues:
cupped or worn out front tire
front tire out of balance
front tire air pressure
back neck bearing
neck bearing out of adjustment
front wheel bearing
front brake rotor
Possible issues:
cupped or worn out front tire
front tire out of balance
front tire air pressure
back neck bearing
neck bearing out of adjustment
front wheel bearing
front brake rotor
It should be rare that it is fall away once it has been adjusted after break in unless there is considerable wear on the neck bearings. It is not easy for the adjusting nut to turn when the front end is together. Of course, someone could have done it wrong at some point in time.
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