70-80 ft-lbs on my 08. I don't think I'd put that much on it the way it is now though.

 

I'm assuming the case is cast aluminum?

 

Any thoughts on aluminum brazing rods, just to keep the crack from spreading?

 

I did a quick google search for local welders in your area.. theres a few there that do fabrication and mobile welding on anything including heavy equipment.. these are the kind of guys you want.. i would just give them a call and see who can weld up the aluminum for you. either they come to you or you take it to them.. a veteran welder can make a nice smooth weld that will last the life of the eng.

the only way i know to make a crack stop spreading even with welding is to drill a small hole at the end of the crack.. (you do the same thing with plaster walls or drywall walls. airplanes have round windows for a reason) since that area isn't directly involved with the actual crankcase oil, with those cracks i would probably drill approx a 1/16-1/8" hole all the way through to the bolt sleeve and let them weld it up. if you do as much prep work as possible, ie... cleaning of oil, removing of paint around the area etc.. they should charge you a minimal amount since you did the prep work.

PS.. make sure you disconnect the battery, both ground and positive cables. also make sure he connects his grounding clamp to the eng and not the frame.

Mobile Welding Repair (469) 232-8467 3700 Dilido Rd, Dallas, TX

Wallis Welding & Fabricating (972) 276-8723 316 Main St, Garland, TX

Wright's Welding (972) 487-8881 224 Garvon St, Garland, TX

Smith Welding Works (972) 276-0224 110 Garvon St, Garland, TX

 

I wonder if that isn't accident damage. As in the frame twisted in an impact and cracked the hole like that. I would be inclined to drill the crack ends to prevent spread and keep an eye on it. Welding seems like a last ditch as it introduces its own problems, stress and embrittlement.

 

Thank you all for the information. I've spoke to a local welder who seems knowledge about the subject, and I will be going to him to do the repair. I'll keep everyone posted on the outcome. I'm ready to put this to bed and just ride.

 

Good luck. Hope it works out for you.

 

Let us know what process he used and good luck with it.. I didnt know it wasnt threaded so this should be doable by laying the bike down on its side.. I would think tig would be the only way to do it.. with tig you are ensured you have one piece of metal when you are done.. and also, he will be able to grind most of that crack out.. you can weld on a beer can with tig.. (so I am told).. I've always wanted a tig setup.. but cant justify it nor the time it would take me to learn the process..

It will also be a "pretty" weld. Good luck and keep us in the loop so if someone else encounters this they can see what you did.. Im guessing your engine was hit by a car dead on at some point.. I dont see "squishing" this thing with that bolt.. though I guess possible if some meat head used a air impact tool set too high. BUt the question would be why was the engine out anyway? So Im thinking accident as well...


again good luck to you.

 

Sweet looking scoot. Looks like it was put together probably from an accident or so. Parts are all custom and the rear brake rotor is for a spoke wheel and not that wheel. All my bikes are all changed out as well, so that doesn't mean a bad thing, but it looks like it might have been through a wreck. As long as you didn't pay a high dollar bill, even a bike put back together with nice parts like this is a still a bad *** ride and fun to ride.

I agree with barchetta... I seriously doubt that it was cranked too hard with wrench to crack. jmo... have fun on the bike and congrats.

 

Is he going to split the cases to weld it. I will break the bad news now that it he doesn't split them he won't be able to weld them properly. The motor has too much heat displacement working against it without being split