Every 18" tire up to, and including, a 260/40/18 will fit the Breakout. Amount of lowering does not matter. It would fit with the shocks completely removed even.

 

Thanks 24v.

 

Hey 24v. Did your Danny Gray seat move your sitting position forward more or do you sit the same distance as the stock seat?

 

I think it is close to the same position, or maybe just a very slight amount forward. It feels more forward just because there is so much more back support compared to the stock seat.

 

I don't think anyone would want to zero out the map. At a minimum you would download the map currently on the bike and start from there.

 

Since tuning was brought up. I pose a question. What is auto tuning actually tuning too? What does it think the ideal tune is, and can it be adjusted?

I'm no professional but I know tuning well and have never gotten an answer on this.

What parameters is auto tuning adjusting to meet. For example what is ideal in auto tunings mind.

Think about it. How many pv2's are there? They all think the same thing is ideal to auto tune every bike too....what is that?

 

There are at least 4 different answers to your question:

Some auto tuners have a fixed target AFR of 14.7 (not great for performance, and causes a HARLEY engine to run a little hotter than we like, but would keep the engine "California compliant" I suppose).

Some auto tuners have a fixed target AFR that is more performance oriented, like 13.5 for example.

Some auto tuners allow you to set your own target AFR.

The best ones allow you to set the target AFR by cell or range.

Don't ask me which currently available models do what. Since I prefer a human tuner using a dyno, I don't know which auto tuners take what approach.

Jim G

 

You aren't understanding what im saying. Im not saying zero out a map that is already on the bike. When you buy a bike and hook up a tuner to it you can choose to run the bike the with the stock calibration or upload a canned tune. Essentially the oem map is a "zero" map on the aftermarket tuner. So from that you would build your custom tune not from an uploaded canned tune. Try to understand what im saying before you dismiss it.

That's what Im saying!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The stock oem fuel map is considered a "zero" map because no calibrations have been made, its the stock base map or a "zero" map. A lot of guys don't start their tunes based on the oem map. Instead they upload a canned tune that was made by the tuner manufacturer and then go in and tweak those settings. I truly believe its because a lot of them are lazy and working off of a canned tune allows them to get everything dialed in quicker because the bulk of the work has already been done.

You basically just repeated what I said. And there is no need to name drop because I have no idea who in the hell these people are. There are thousands of great tuners in this country besides the three you mention.

Im not "grossly" underestimating anything. I said a human tuner is the best option but changing conditions outside of a shop in the real world can "grossly" affect a tune. If you don't believe that then you have no idea what you're talking about. A dyno tune is to get everything dialed in as far as torque curves and optimal afr's. Once you get out on the road or on the track conditions change and in turn your tune is not optimal anymore. That's where an auto tuner comes in. So you can adjust for temp changes, air velocity, elevation, whatever. Auto tuners essentially let you dyno in the real world. Just about every form of racing from motorcycles to automobiles uses auto tuners, its how they gather their data So I say again try to understand what Im saying before you go off and dismiss it. Go call your buddy the Mike Lizano himself and Im sure he would agree.

 

I'm not dismissing anything. You did not say tuners start with factory calibrations, you said zero map. To me zero = 0. Not zero = beginning calibration with values in the cells.

As for what a "tuner" starts with, that is solely up to the individual. You can achieve the same end goal starting with any calibration. If you are looking to build a custom tune, and are asking a price for it, then yes it is only gentleman like to start from a factory calibration. If you just want to touch up a good running bike, then why not start with one that has had a bunch of the work done and is already close?

If you truly understand what you are doing, either method will get you there.

 

Relax bro. First, your coming after 2 guys in 24v and Jim that know their **** and are helpful around here.

I know tuning and haven't heard it referenced as "zero" anything so it wasn't obvious. Also, auto tuning and gathering data "data logging" aren't always one and the same. Most racing applications would not auto tune. they would data log, then a person would review the data and adjust the map.

Working off a canned tune doesn't make a tuner lazy, it makes them efficient. Why would I want to pay a guy to start from scratch on a dyno when I have a typical setup that he's already built custom tunes for a 1000 times over? Start with the closest one you've got and tweak.