Feb 13, 2015, 01:41 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
Everything Breakout! Find out everything you need to know! Some topics include:
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
The Everything Breakout Thread
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
thing I have found with oil coolers id the pretty ones don't work well and the ugly ones work great. for example, I have a Jagg 6-row black oil cooler on my other bike- it is small and kinda ugly but works amazingly well. before that I had some uber-ginchy dual billet tube coolers and they worked for ****. but they were pretty 
I really wouldn't worry about it too much unless you are seeing some ridiculously high ET's -
Good luck hop you get the bike on the road soon!!
I really wouldn't worry about it too much unless you are seeing some ridiculously high ET's -
Good luck hop you get the bike on the road soon!!
Novice
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Crawley, UK
I have Oil Bud installed on my bike. It is really high quality product and becomes kind of invincible situated below the engine between the frame pipes. It is effective and I really didnt want to clutter my bike with clumsy oil cooler in front of engine.. so this was for me the only accpetable solution. These are not very common so was bit nerveous when I bought it as it is bit pricy but am really happy with it today.. I highly reccomend it.
here is a picture when installing it.. the front attachments havent been bolted yet so front end looks lower than final position
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 624
Likes: 0
From: Central Arkansas
I have Oil Bud installed on my bike. It is really high quality product and becomes kind of invincible situated below the engine between the frame pipes. It is effective and I really didnt want to clutter my bike with clumsy oil cooler in front of engine.. so this was for me the only accpetable solution. These are not very common so was bit nerveous when I bought it as it is bit pricy but am really happy with it today.. I highly reccomend it.
here is a picture when installing it.. the front attachments havent been bolted yet so front end looks lower than final position
Thank you Helgi.
How do they mount to the frame? Did you have to drill anything?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
here's the website has some pics, plus installation instructions on lower right. https://harleyoilcoolers.com/ looks nicely made and is thermostatically controlled. although I'd stay away from polished finishes as they do not transfer heat as well as machined / raw surface including painted. if you think back to Evo days polished motors always ran a bit hotter than non-polished.
I've never been a fan of oil coolers that block air flow to the motor cooling fins but looks-wise that is always the best place to hide it. The best placement for an oil cooler is strapped to front frame down tube and positioned on the outside of bike. typically ain't pretty though
I've never been a fan of oil coolers that block air flow to the motor cooling fins but looks-wise that is always the best place to hide it. The best placement for an oil cooler is strapped to front frame down tube and positioned on the outside of bike. typically ain't pretty though
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
I'd just like to add - and some may disagree - that a stage 1 and proper tune will do a lot more for having a cooler running bike, and there's little need for an oil cooler with the lighter softails and dynas. because of EPA stuff, our bikes come with rather lean fuel maps- idling and cruising in the 14.6 AFR range with tame spark advance, purposefully neutered spark advance in key area such as off idle, and super high advance in the cruise ares.
This reduces emissions, improves mpg and keeps novice riders from damaging the motor if lugging it while breaking in, but, also lends to much hotter ET's. Even the canned HD stage1 tunes and ones provided by DJ follow this theme.
If you think back to the Evo days you'd tune for 12.4 or 12.5 AFR and provide as much advance as possible without inducing spark knock. you'd only add an oil cooler after that if it's really needed, mainly for the super high HP builds on a town bike. My big dog 107 runs 12.1 to 12.5 AFR and idles around 13.1 - I have the Breakout set up at 14.1 in the cruise area AFR's from 2000-3500 rpm and 30-60 kpa, decel AFR's in the 20/30 kpa and 1250-rpm / up columns is 13.0 to 12.5, and anywhere in AFR's that handle throttle roll-on, off-idle acceleration or WOT ranges from 13.6 to 12.1. My idle AFR is 12.1 for summer and in winter I'll bump it to 13.2 - I don't see any ET's over 270 with regular riding in town on a hot day (stop and go stuff)- if I'm stuck idling in traffic I'll see 280. but that is what lane splitting is for - nothing wrong with 280 temps anyway these bikes are designed for it. most of my ET's during actual riding are in the 170 range.
not sayin there's anything wrong with adding an oil cooler just majority of the time it's really not a necessary item, and you could spend your money on more important things like shiny chrome goodies . my nickle's worth
This reduces emissions, improves mpg and keeps novice riders from damaging the motor if lugging it while breaking in, but, also lends to much hotter ET's. Even the canned HD stage1 tunes and ones provided by DJ follow this theme.
If you think back to the Evo days you'd tune for 12.4 or 12.5 AFR and provide as much advance as possible without inducing spark knock. you'd only add an oil cooler after that if it's really needed, mainly for the super high HP builds on a town bike. My big dog 107 runs 12.1 to 12.5 AFR and idles around 13.1 - I have the Breakout set up at 14.1 in the cruise area AFR's from 2000-3500 rpm and 30-60 kpa, decel AFR's in the 20/30 kpa and 1250-rpm / up columns is 13.0 to 12.5, and anywhere in AFR's that handle throttle roll-on, off-idle acceleration or WOT ranges from 13.6 to 12.1. My idle AFR is 12.1 for summer and in winter I'll bump it to 13.2 - I don't see any ET's over 270 with regular riding in town on a hot day (stop and go stuff)- if I'm stuck idling in traffic I'll see 280. but that is what lane splitting is for
- nothing wrong with 280 temps anyway these bikes are designed for it. most of my ET's during actual riding are in the 170 range.not sayin there's anything wrong with adding an oil cooler just majority of the time it's really not a necessary item, and you could spend your money on more important things like shiny chrome goodies
. my nickle's worth
Last edited by LA_Dog; May 31, 2015 at 09:11 AM.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 624
Likes: 0
From: Central Arkansas
I'd just like to add - and some may disagree - that a stage 1 and proper tune will do a lot more for having a cooler running bike, and there's little need for an oil cooler with the lighter softails and dynas. because of EPA stuff, our bikes come with rather lean fuel maps- idling and cruising in the 14.6 AFR range with tame spark advance, purposefully neutered spark advance in key area such as off idle, and super high advance in the cruise ares.
This reduces emissions, improves mpg and keeps novice riders from damaging the motor if lugging it while breaking in, but, also lends to much hotter ET's. Even the canned HD stage1 tunes and ones provided by DJ follow this theme.
If you think back to the Evo days you'd tune for 12.4 or 12.5 AFR and provide as much advance as possible without inducing spark knock. you'd only add an oil cooler after that if it's really needed, mainly for the super high HP builds on a town bike. My big dog 107 runs 12.1 to 12.5 AFR and idles around 13.1 - I have the Breakout set up at 14.1 in the cruise area AFR's from 2000-3500 rpm and 30-60 kpa, decel AFR's in the 20/30 kpa and 1250-rpm / up columns is 13.0 to 12.5, and anywhere in AFR's that handle throttle roll-on, off-idle acceleration or WOT ranges from 13.6 to 12.1. My idle AFR is 12.1 for summer and in winter I'll bump it to 13.2 - I don't see any ET's over 270 with regular riding in town on a hot day (stop and go stuff)- if I'm stuck idling in traffic I'll see 280. but that is what lane splitting is for - nothing wrong with 280 temps anyway these bikes are designed for it. most of my ET's during actual riding are in the 170 range.
not sayin there's anything wrong with adding an oil cooler just majority of the time it's really not a necessary item, and you could spend your money on more important things like shiny chrome goodies . my nickle's worth
This reduces emissions, improves mpg and keeps novice riders from damaging the motor if lugging it while breaking in, but, also lends to much hotter ET's. Even the canned HD stage1 tunes and ones provided by DJ follow this theme.
If you think back to the Evo days you'd tune for 12.4 or 12.5 AFR and provide as much advance as possible without inducing spark knock. you'd only add an oil cooler after that if it's really needed, mainly for the super high HP builds on a town bike. My big dog 107 runs 12.1 to 12.5 AFR and idles around 13.1 - I have the Breakout set up at 14.1 in the cruise area AFR's from 2000-3500 rpm and 30-60 kpa, decel AFR's in the 20/30 kpa and 1250-rpm / up columns is 13.0 to 12.5, and anywhere in AFR's that handle throttle roll-on, off-idle acceleration or WOT ranges from 13.6 to 12.1. My idle AFR is 12.1 for summer and in winter I'll bump it to 13.2 - I don't see any ET's over 270 with regular riding in town on a hot day (stop and go stuff)- if I'm stuck idling in traffic I'll see 280. but that is what lane splitting is for
- nothing wrong with 280 temps anyway these bikes are designed for it. most of my ET's during actual riding are in the 170 range.not sayin there's anything wrong with adding an oil cooler just majority of the time it's really not a necessary item, and you could spend your money on more important things like shiny chrome goodies
. my nickle's worthI don't like seeing them attached to the down tubes and am just researching different options.
I looked at this Fueling cooler but I'm not sure how effective it is.
So far even though the oil bud is mounted underneath the bike, it appears it offers the greatest benefit because of the amount of surface area it provides.
The "spill" they try to sell on the oil coolers, is that you don't have to be moving to receive cooling benefits because the surface area of the cooler transfers the heat to the cooler air around it without air flow, however the flow of air helps to transfer the heat more rapidly.
Correct me if I'm wrong.