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This is true, the thought of damaging anything or messing up the install is what puts me off a little..
still have 3 weeks before the top plate arrives from the states to decide on doing it myself anyway.
Rest assured 24V's advice is sound. The job is easy. I did mine and I'm a complete newbie to all of this. It takes a bit longer for guys like me to do even simple jobs, but the reward of knowing your bike a little better is well worth the time and minor "anxiety " involved. My 2013 softail service manual, sect 4.16 was essential, as was an appropriate torque wrench. If you have these and the other basic tools, you're GTG. Just take it step by step.
There is a threaded fish plate inside the square frame tube that the Torx screw, securing the rear of the tank (and your new dash) threads into. Know that when you remove the screw entirely, the fish plate drops inside the square tube (just inside the end) and you'll need to balance the plate on a finger, inside the end of the tube, while threading the screw back into it. Pudgy fingers make this a little frustrating but the rest of the job is quite an enjoyable little exercise. "Have fun" !
Do it yourself man. Even if you get a little scratch on your paint from banging it with a wrench it's ok. Bikes are gonna get nicks and scratches.......it's inevitable if you ride them. You will get over it after a sleepless night or two lol, trust me I know from experience.
The feeling and pride of doing it yourself lasts a lifetime.
Do it yourself man. Even if you get a little scratch on your paint from banging it with a wrench it's ok. Bikes are gonna get nicks and scratches.......it's inevitable if you ride them. You will get over it after a sleepless night or two lol, trust me I know from experience.
The feeling and pride of doing it yourself lasts a lifetime.
I'll second what these guys are saying about doing it yourself. I swapped mine and I'm learning as I go and have never worked on a bike before. Just look at where everything is attached to the old base plate and attach it the same way to the new one and the rest goes the same.
+1 for do it yourself, so easy. But if you're keeping the stock black on it be careful because mine scratched so easy. It's off getting powder coated now because of that.
For you guys that did the +3" controls, did your kit come with a brake line? I just picked the kit up from my dealer and it didn't. I'm checking parts number now to be sure it's right.
Changing out the dash is a simple / novice level operation. Just take your time and it will be fine. I had to pull it off while removing the tank for a handlebar swap... which I had never done before. The dash removal was the easiest part and it was only a 2 hour job.
I can't comment on those HD lights, but I can confirm that the Custom Dynamics lights don't do diddly, as you suspect. I am about to ditch the CD LED's I put in the front of my bike. I'm switching to the Primo LED headlamp with built in signals and an Adjure bucket. The HD front signals are coming off the bike.
Don't get me wrong about the Custom Dynamics stuff. They're LED replacement lights are really very good. I'm definitely keeping my CD LED's in the taillights. They blow incandescent bulbs away, no doubt.
Their white/amber LED's just don't perform well up front as a supplement to the headlight. If I had to do it again and if I was going to keep the factory signals, I'd just get the dual intensity amber lights from CD. Forget about the CD white/amber LED's.
I was looking at the Rivera primo lights as well. Are they as bright as the Daymaker? Has anyone had both for comparison? Also, the Phase 3 5 3/4 light says it has 1128 Lumens. They also have a replacement bulb called the HED LED H4LED that says it has 2800 Lumens that fits the Breakout. Anyone use any of these? Changing out the lights (unsure now with the front turn signals, but the back will be CD and the chrome glow bendable light for the underside of the rear fender) and the A/C and pipes will be the first mods to my bike.
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