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This specific type of T10 led bulb is not a dual type of design. it will be either a running light -or- a turn signal but cannot do both.
So you'd need one of the led "switchback" type of led bulbs, white for running light and yellow for turns. or one of the types that is has dual contacts for use as a yellow running light and also a turn signal.
just check on amazon try searching for "t10 led turn signal and running light" and see what comes up. the most important part is that the led bulb has two separate "hot" contacts - one contact for the running light wire, one contact for the turn signal wire, and then a common ground.
I didn't want running lights so I did not get that far into it.
Normally yes, but not with some of these newer ultra bright bulbs. they are polarity insensitive and have banks of IC chips as driver, canbus and stabilization circuits. So if V+ falls below a certain level, as in putting a resistor in front of it, they don't light up. When V+ is within their operating range they are full bright.
In this case they make the bulbs with two separate V+ rails, one rail operates the led's slightly dimmer and the other V+ at full bright (e.g. the 1157 tail led's I used for the rears). Or there are other types called "switchback" leds that have a V+ rail for white leds (marker lights) and another V+ rail for amber leds (signals) on the same bulb. I put a set of those in my Nissan Frontier and they are pretty sweet. but the switchbacks are usually pretty large at 1/2" - 3/4" diameter.
These could work for a dual application- they are so small you could put two on each side, side by side- hook one up to the running light and one up to the turn signal. and they are cheap too. this type can be found in white as well if someone wanted to have white running lights.
Has anyone cut their rear fender bracket / licence plate holder down. I'm going for a side mount and want convert the rear end to the US style. Any tips for doing this?
Last edited by MarkFXSTC; Jan 2, 2016 at 03:53 AM.
Has anyone cut their rear fender bracket / licence plate holder down. I'm going for a side mount and want convert the rear end to the US style. Any tips for doing this?
Funny you should ask this today. My wife and I are planning to move from the U.S. back to Canada sometime in the future. I discovered that the U.S. sidemounted license plate and twin side mounted lights with no central taillight is illegal in Canada. So, as part of "converting" my bike to Canadian safety standards, I will need to go to an arrangement like or similar to yours!
I've been wondering if there is a "stock" rear light and license plate assembly that will bolt right onto the abbreviated Breakout rear fender and not require too much fiddling with the bike's wiring connections. Anyone know?
If there is, I'll probably do the conversion now versus later, as that side mounted plate is a real pain when the bike is loaded into my enclosed garage / toyhauler / RV trailer, because I am always running into it when the murphy bed is deployed.
Funny you should ask this today. My wife and I are planning to move from the U.S. back to Canada sometime in the future. I discovered that the U.S. sidemounted license plate and twin side mounted lights with no central taillight is illegal in Canada. So, as part of "converting" my bike to Canadian safety standards, I will need to go to an arrangement like or similar to yours!
I've been wondering if there is a "stock" rear light and license plate assembly that will bolt right onto the abbreviated Breakout rear fender and not require too much fiddling with the bike's wiring connections. Anyone know?
If there is, I'll probably do the conversion now versus later, as that side mounted plate is a real pain when the bike is loaded into my enclosed garage / toyhauler / RV trailer, because I am always running into it when the murphy bed is deployed.
Jim G
Jim it looks like you just need to order the non-USA bracket piece, rear lamp pieces, and then re-route the wires. Will require unbolting the fender from the rear supports though.
The pics below are from Ronnie's online microfiche parts finder - this is the Breakout assembly for both the overseas version and the USA version. same fender etc just different plate holder pieces.
Has anyone cut their rear fender bracket / licence plate holder down. I'm going for a side mount and want convert the rear end to the US style. Any tips for doing this?
Mark you can use the same info I posted for Jim- it's just the reverse. you'll only need the left side license bracket piece and left turn signal assembly with new wire connector. Both US and non-US bikes use the same reflector.
Hey maybe you and Jim can just exchange parts? LOL
Jim it looks like you just need to order the non-USA bracket piece, rear lamp pieces, and then re-route the wires. Will require unbolting the fender from the rear supports though.
The pics below are from Ronnie's online microfiche parts finder - this is the Breakout assembly for both the overseas version and the USA version. same fender etc just different plate holder pieces.
You'll need the non-US left side mount rear turn signal since it is probably different. - or get cooler looking small turn signals
Harley Breakout FXSB USA and non USA rear fender and license plate assemblies
La_Dog: It was really nice of you to do this research on my behalf. I really appreciate it, as I have my hands kind of full at the moment with other stuff. I'll use this to make myself a purchase parts list.
Or if anyone out there has replaced their non-USA taillight and license plate mount, or has one from a wrecked bike, I'd be interested in buying it.
I am putting on the 30T front pulley in the next couple of weeks. Here is the correct info for anyone else looking to do this. Another excellent bang for buck performance upgrade.
Typical cost, $300 parts & labor for front pulley swap, and another $100 for the rear pulley swap assuming you DIY the rear pulley change. otherwise add on another $70 in labor. Still, that's less than the cost of a fancy air cleaner for much better acceleration and ZERO downside.
STOCK INFO: Breakout primary gears stock:
34 on the compensator, and 46 on the clutch bucket.
Drive belt:
You can use the same 133T belt if you do both the 30T front and 68T rear, or, leave the stock 32T front and do the 68T rear pulley. If you only install the 30T front and leave the 66T rear, you must buy a shorter 132 or 131 belt.
Labor costs:
Local HD dealer (Barger HD in Canoga Park, California) quoted me $135 labor for the install assuming I have all parts.
Local HD dealer (Glendale HD in Glendale, California) quoted me $150 labor for the install.
Both dealers stated it is about a 1.5hr job
I called a local indy shop - "Born Free Cycles" in Burbank, and was quoted !$350! for labor only. WTF?
Ratios and RPMs
The overall drive ratio will change from the stock 2.79 to 3.067 (9.899% shorter gearing = NICE!).
The RPM's with a 30T front and 68T rear in 6th are as follows:
Rear Pulley upgrade:
See my previous posts in this thread for the rear 68T sportster pulley (P/N 40444-07) upgrade and the shorter five hub bolts (P/N 3899). Easy to DIY on the rear pulley with basic tools.
Speedometer:
Your speedo will be off by 9.899% with the new 30t / 68t combo vs the stock 32t / 66t so you'll need a TTS / PV2 to change the calibration, by adding 9.899% to the stock speedometer value of 2115. You may want to add another 3 or 4 % to account for any factory deviation, as HD allows for up to 5% discrepancy.
Great write up, does anyone know of a chrome version of the 68 Tooth rear pulley
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Feb 13, 2015, 01:41 PM
