Hey Goldsgym.
Very nice Breakout. I like what you have done with the blacked out parts.
What method or process did you use to black out the triple tree's?

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Welcome to the forum- Yes it is generally the same whether it's a sport bike, Harley or dirt bike. it's not an exact figure but a close approximation.

The most optimal town bike gearing for any new Harley Dyna or Softail is 30 front and 70 rear. Touring guys usually prefer a 30t front / 68t rear. but even with 30/70 there is negligible penalty in 6th as far as economy- it is only a 13% difference vs stock but will make a huge difference off the line and in-gear roll ons, as well as helping to get more out of a performance cam upgrade.

Right now it is 100% verified that you can go 30t front and 68t rear on the Breakout using a front pulley from a tri-glide and a rear pulley from a sportster, with the stock belt- It works fantastic at a roughly 10% improvement in TQ. I am presently working on finding out which 70t pulley from other HD models will fit the Breakout, and the easiest way to do it.

 

On the above note I have a 70t Arlen Ness rear pulley on the way, for 2004-2006 FLHT. I discovered (via various forums) the 68t sportster pulley that fits the Breakout will also fit those bikes, so I'm anxious to see if it will work out. Given that I have the 30t front pulley installed I have plenty of belt adjustment left to accommodate the 70t.

Anyway, will update with results in a week or two.

 

Not sure on that- but - if you used the longer fork tubes from a Wide Glide, then just use the HD spec for oil fill on that model of bike.

But honestly the #1 thing that will make your BO corner and brake MUCH better is going with single rate springs and better dampers. it's not an expensive or difficult DIY especially given you are already familiar with the process. See my sticky at the top of the softail forum. Trust me, this is a hands down, no question, massive improvement. and it will still work with your longer fork tubes, the only difference will be your oil fill level and longer preload spacers. but you'd buy the exact same springs / dampers parts as for the regular length stock tubes.

[EDIT] - oh wait, ok you have to tell us what fork tubes you used and post some pics- the wide glide fork tubes are only 1.5" longer than stock and you added 3+ inches- I'd love to see that! - Back to the point, you can still use the same upgrade springs / dampers, you'll just cut longer preload spacers and use an appropriate amount of oil. The aftermarket parts vendors I listed in my sticky can help advise you on that, especially Ricor.

 

Rode 10 or 15 miles today on the new bike (not really supposed to be riding yet but can't help it, elbow still a little sore). Biggest/only difference I can tell so far is the throttle by wire. Instant throttle response compared to the cable. No lag at all. I like it from what little bit I rode.

 

"But Doc....the vibrating bike makes my elbow feel better......"

LOL

 

Yea, can't understand why my elbow won't heal any faster. Can't help but want to ride it.

 

Thanks for the link, much appreciated


i have already done the tri glide 30T upgrade & still looking for a little more


the 70 tooth idea has me thinking

 

Thank you for your response. I'm thinking of just going to a rear sprocket change only. I know on a sport bike it made a significant difference! by just doing that. I look forward to hearing about the 70 tooth rear sprocket change

 

I'm 235 lbs, ride solo, and I'm thinking of running my Dunlop E3 250 rear tire at 36 psi cold vs the recommended 42. Anyone else running lower pressures ?

Sorry, I searched the thread and found no prior posts dealing with this.