Thanks Jim- Yeh what threw me was your CVO wheels. that and my brain is only sometimes half working. hah.

Your tuner did an amazing job getting that dialed in- that's an impressively smooth set of lines. How's your low speed and light throttle drive-ability, twitchy at all or pretty smooth? did your tuner need to pull timing in the low speed areas of timing map? (that's usually the case with oversize TB's but not always, AFAIK)

 

Zero twitchiness. Feel like a rheostat. I don't know what he did with timing - he never commented on that.

I just spent 3 -1/2 hours washing and waxing the bike, with the majority of the time being spent on those Turbine wheels. I am really glad that I don't have twin front disk brakes, because if I did, I wouldn't be able to clean them at all well. Those wheels are really maintenance-intensive, and really heavy (which detracts from both handling and the rear wheel dyno power because of the rear wheel's high moment of inertia), but when clean, they look incredible, and you need sunglasses to look at them.

Jim G

 

+2 on the d & d pipe for power. Worked well with my cam only upgrade. Thanks to Scott at hillside for the hookup with a badass dyno tuner here in ca.

 

Yep- Performance vs looks, the age old trade off right? I think you found a good balance. So for my bikes, one of them being the all chrome and polished Big Dog, I use a power washer on low setting and there is a water softener inline with the water supply. Spritz on the paint and wheel safe cleaner, let it soak in, wash it off with power washer. Clean and spot free dry due to no heavy minerals in water. I use compressed air and a nozzle to blow water off the motor, fins, etc. Anyway it cut my bike washing time down in half easily.

 

I use an "Ivation" "low to mid" (not much more pressure than a water faucet hose) pressure washer with a small onboard reservoir. It runs of a self-contained battery OR plugs into a cigarette lighter 12 volt outlet. It is gentle but effective in both wetting down and rinsing the bike, and I use distilled water in it that I buy at the grocery store for $.90 per gallon (I need about 6 to 7 gallons per wash, total, including the water in the separate bucket with the soapy water). The Ivation is one of the best investments I have made. It cost under $150 as I recall, and has been great in washing the Breakout, the enclosed trailer the Breakout lives within and transports within, and when I had the KTM dirt bike, it even took dirt, mud, and clay off that bike.

The Ivation doesn't look very impressive - it's mostly plastic - but man does it work well.

Its primary market is people who live in apartment buildings and are not allowed to hook up to a water faucet to wash their vehicles.

Jim G

 

Good product tip Jim- I could use a portable unit for road trips. Will check it out.

If you want to save a boat load of time waxing and use something that shines and holds up much better to everything, especially things like bird crap and water spots, switch to the Prima Hydro poly protective coating. No buffing needed, crazy easy to apply, and it lasts for half a year per application. it is also very economical when bought in bulk. plus you can use it over everything, all trim, glass, etc. It is crystal clear and really durable. Professional grade, not the "auto zone" various brand poly stuff which is junk.

There are two products, the "Prima Hydro Seal" which is the base protector (apply 2x per year) and the "Prima Hydro Spray Wax" maintainer (apply after every wash).
While bike or car is still wet, spray it on to paint or the damp drying cloth then dry as normal with a damp microfiber cloth. Not much is needed and no white residue on either of these products. Stupid easy and top quality results. Been using it for 5+ years on everything from the bikes to the 911. I have the "full suite" of quality carnauba waxes here and they sit in the shed, unused. no longer any benefit. I also use it on fine furniture and other things that have shiny poly or lacquer or enamel coatings. it is a very versatile protective product. Polished quartz, corian counters, fiberglass gel coat, any shiny smooth fine surface.

Order from autogeeks.net they have the best prices and if you sign up for the mailing list they always have great coupons.

Video on applying the base Prima Hydro Seal (it's stupid easy too)

Prima Hydro spray wax maintainer:
http://www.autogeek.net/prima-hydro-spray-wax.html

You won't find anything but glowing review after glowing review.

For seat and tire side walls I use "Aerospace 303 protectant". That is hands down the best stuff on earth for plastic, rubber and leather / vinyl. It has great UV inhibitors and is not greasy. I use it on the nissan truck trim and dirt bikes- Years later still no fading of black rubber or plastic trim from desert sun.

 

Hey, thanks! I have been looking for a better solution than wax, as the wax takes a LOT of time and elbow grease. I'll give this product set a try.

And yes, I too use 303 Protectant for all the plastic parts, and Lexan leather conditioner for my leather Corbin seat. 303 and Lexan are both great products.

Jim G

 

I think you'll be pretty happy with it- i use the Hydro spray maintainer on all of my polished billet after cleaning it. makes the shine last a lot longer by locking out oxidation. wheels clean off a lot easier too.

I use Lexan too- good stuff. You can use the 303 over it to add the UV protection.

 

Sorry been in class all week.
I used the Fat Bob tank dash, made some brackets to bolt it on since a dyna tank plate is a larger size. The hole for the ignition is too close to the fuel tank to install the switch. I took an oil cap and had it painted to cover it.

 

I did n't know you could "layer" the 303 over the Lexan. Where did you find that out?

Jim G