I also replied on the main forum post you made but I'll do it here as well.

My factory front wore just like this. I changed it at 14k miles. I replaced my first rear around 7k miles so I had an E3 at the time of changing the front. Both rear tires wore in the center, not on the right. As of now, The bike has 17.3k running E3 front and rear, both changed around 14k miles. I can't visibly note the same wear pattern on the front as of now.

 

I have no idea but wonder if with our particular models (pre 2018 BO's) having such a great disparity in F/R tire sizes, and such a long wheelbase, would misalignment wear indeed tend to concentrate on the front tire alone. The rear tire has a relatively huge contact patch when riding straight and when you jack up a BO, there's a significant weight bias to the rear, which I expect increases proportionally with a rider in the saddle, and even more when accelerating. Its only a rationalization on my part but I can envision the front tire coping with most, (or all), of the pitfalls of a significant misalignment through creep, and/or constant rider steering correction. Your tire doesn't look "cupped" like other photos I've seen. It looks to be worn evenly but off center, like I'd expect of a misaligned tire.

I'm running Dunlop E3's with Ride-On in both and don't have this issue, FWIW.

 

How many ounces of Ride-On did you put in the rear? I followed the recommended dosage once and it violently shook once I hit highway speeds. Had to bust the tire off to clean it all out. Not a good experience.

 

2 bottles (16 oz) rear, 1 bottle (8oz) front. Shakes bad at first, yes, but within a mile its all good. Been using it since my bike was new, (2014), with all new tire changes, and swear by it.

That said, my Indie , installs the tires and Ride-On which I supply him. It is he who does the smooth-out ride too. Thats the story though and never an issue. He does dose the tires exactly as stated.

 

Since we're on the subject of tires, someone please recommend a non-directional tire for a BO that has better handling than the stock Dunlops (hard not to, I guess) AND will last me about 20k (Front) and 10k (Rear). I feel I'm an average rider in terms of speed, breaking, and throttle.

If you had tires that lasted even longer I'd be happy to hear about it, but I'd be content with the mileages stated.

 

Just be aware that any tires that give you that kind of tread life are not going to at the same time provide maximum safety, or even fair safety, on a 2-wheeled vehicle. Nir will they provide better handling than the Dunlops which are already at the bottom of the handling performance chart.

I personally value my skin and bones more than I value reduced tire cost. But, it's a personal decision.

Jim G

 

I'm looking for something similar to those mileage numbers because that's the approx mileage I get from stock Dunlops.

Any recommendations for non-directional tires? I'd like to get better handling performance and still get better mileage than a lot of other forum users report on some of their tires (8-10k front, 4-5k rear).

A lot of BO riders seem to like Avon Cobras and Metzler 880 though. How's the handling and mileage? I'm willing to compromise somewhat.

 

I'd bet that the Metzler 880 tires will not live long. I have one on the back now ... it's fookin' sticky when it's dead cold, forget about it once it's warmed up, lol.

As for my weird wear problem, I'm thinking it might be because the wheel/tire are not centered between the fork legs. The spacers on these bikes are different left-to-right. The wheel/tire are not on the bikes center line. The new wheel that I'm waiting for will correct this issue.

I'm also gonna try this:

1) Jack bike up, both wheels off the ground.
2) Loosen pinch bolts on right fork leg and watch carefully for any movement. If none is observed, give the tree a whack with a mallet.
3)Tighten bolts, chalk the tire - go for a ride.

I'm not optimistic about this actually revealing anything.

I'm really leaning towards the wheel/tire not centered thing...but that would mean that all these bikes should see similar tire wear...but that doesn't seem to be the case

.....fookin' WEIRD!

Almost forgot - in anticipation of going to a 124 engine, a few months back I bit the bullet and ordered a new pipe from RB Racing out in Cali - their short Pro Stock Challenge 2-1 pipe with no baffle, 2" primaries, silver ceramic coated inside & out and with chrome heat shields.

I put the order out of my mind after placing it, knowing about their "built to order, one-set-at-a-time, you'll get the pipe when you get it" practice/rep. Well, the pipe showed up the other day. Man, it's a great looking pipe and the bike definitely performs and sounds better. I'm happy.

It fit pretty good - almost perfect, lol... The head pipes went on without a hitch. This is a two piece pipe. The front head pipe is separate from the rear head pipe/collector. They bolted right on and fit together perfectly. The glitch was between the tail pipe and the frame bracket. The new RB Racing-supplied bracket has a steep, STEEP dog leg in it. It would push the tail pipe way, way out from the bike if you managed to wedge it in between the pipe and the frame somehow, lol. If you did that, the head pipes would be bent and completely misaligned.

I just re-used the factory HD bracket. I cut it down LOTS - left just enough to get the job done - and I had to drill one hole in it for the RB bolt.

 

My ME880 260 rear was good for 5k mls. Had it changed although there would have been 1k mls more in it.

And yes, those Metzelers handle great!

 

Ckage83
Did you ever receive a reply from anyone confirming your cable length inquiry for your 14" bars. I have a set of Burleigh 14" Highball bars on order and need to purchase cables , and brake line.