Thank, I'll definitely look into those as an option.

 

Avon is also now offering the cobra in a 130 finally too.

+1 on the cobras btw

 

Two Brothers Racing, sounds nasty, so much power, simply badass!

 

got the new Thunderbike risers and installed them this morning. (I know people love the apes - so no further comments needed! haha) the question I have is do I need to use some loctite on the upper riser bolts? I went for a quick run after the install, and at the end I could feel movement in the bars. or do I just need to tighten it down with a ratchet instead of an allen key. (for more leverage - as it was about as tight as I could get with the allen wrench)

 

These apes are VERY high and give your arms an incredible amount of leverage,which has the effect of allowing the bars to "rotate" despite the bolts that secure them against rotation. Because those bolts are basically right AT the pivot point of the "lever" (the long bars) they have very little"counter" leverage. So, everyday riding with these bars is like applying a long handled wrench to the bars every time you ride. This willfor sure defeat the bolts securing them given enough time, and you will lose control of the bike when the bars suddenly"give" after repetitive riding,and actually rotate QUICKLY, probably when you apply a little extra force in an emergency braking or evasive manouvering move. This is a HUGE safety issue that threatens your life. No kidding.

The cure is this: You need to first get the specific torque that the bar manufacturer recommends be applied to secure these bars against rotation. If, incredibly enough, that torque spec is not anywhere in the instructions that came with the bars, you need to get it IN WRITING (for liability reasons) from the bar manufacturer.

Then you need to get the specific torque that the bar clamp / riser manufacturer recommends be applied to the relatively small diameter bolts that prevent bar rotation. Again,if, incredibly enough, that torque spec is not anywhere in the instructions that came with the bar clamps or clamp/riser assembly, you need to get it IN WRITING (for liability reasons) from the bar clamp/riser manufacturer.

Hopefully,these 2 differently calculated and developed torque figures will be similar.if they are not, you will unfortunately have to go with the lower number.This is because a torque higher than recommended by the bar manufacturer can crush the bar. A torque higher than recommended by the bar clamp or riser assembly manufacturer can strip,or even fracture, the bolts. EITHER of these bad outcomes obviously gets you falling off the bike at speed.

If you have to go with the lower number, it is possible that the torque may be insufficient to keep the bars from rotating, ESPECIALLY right at the worst time: when you apply a particularly high load to the bars because you have an emergency situation. So, if the 2 numbers from the 2 manufacturers are more than minimally different, I personally would find either a different bar or a different bar clamp/riser assembly, because the one thing that must NOT happen EVER is that the bars rotate. If they do, there is a good chance they will kill you.

If the 2 torque numbers are reasonably consistent with each other, use a RELIABLE torque wrench ((i.e. good one, not cheap one, and one that you KNOW is properly calibrated and has not been overstressed) when torquing those bolts.

Someone may suggest that if the numbers are too different, that you get the bars crosshatched in the area where they pass through the bar clamps/ risers (I forget what they call this process). However, if they are NOT already crosshatched there BY THEIR MANUFACTURER, do not have that done retroactively,as then you(a) destroy any anti-corrosion coating and thus weaken the bars, or (b) you weaken the bars just via the crosshatching process itself(it displaces metal).

You have got yourself a serious safety issue. Don't treat this casually.

Jim G

 

I just recently started having problems with my 16" apes moving. It didn't matter how tight I got the bolts, they would still slip if pulled or pushed hard enough... I did some research here, and found an easy, inexpensive fix, that so far has been working great!! I picked up a piece of skateboard grip tape from a local board shop, and cut it to fit the width of the raiser, with a notch for the wiring hole in the bars, and wrapped them.

I also read that there's a correct way to tighten the bolts, so this time I tightened the front 2 bolts (sitting on the bike) until cap is just touching the raiser, so there's no gap, then tightened the rear 2 bolts, before torqueing them all down. The only gap should be at the rear of the raiser. I've tested it by pulling/pushing on the them, and have almost 1k miles on the bike since mounting them it this way, and the bars haven't moved a bit!..... and yes, I use a ratchet/torque wrench, I don't think you can get it tight enough with an allen.

 

Will keep the Mob Grip tape in mind should the need ever come up Rokah. Thanks for the tip bro

 

I will look at the manual that came with the risers - it is in German, but I should be able to see a torque # if it is listed. also the bars are do have the machine marks where they contact the risers, but the risers themselves (both stock and the new ones) are smooth chrome on the contact points.


I think I will get that grip tape and lock them down again. thanks for the tip!

 

I can translate for you if needed...

 

I'm gonna guess it is 40Nm??? due to the riser listed as 'linkerlembok'???


eta - **** - I rotated these in paint... wtf
I have to head out - I will try to re-upload these when I get back.