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Old Feb 13, 2015, 01:41 PM
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Old Mar 20, 2017 | 02:18 PM
  #5511  
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^^ Cool deal- I'm looking forward to how it goes for you and your thoughts on the parts, install, end result. I give you much respect for trying something new on the BO and if it turns out to be a solid upgrade item that benefits everyone here..

Did you see if the euro part has TUV certification? That would be huge and I would put a lot of confidence in that.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2017 | 08:15 PM
  #5512  
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Originally Posted by LA_Dog
^^ Cool deal- I'm looking forward to how it goes for you and your thoughts on the parts, install, end result. I give you much respect for trying something new on the BO and if it turns out to be a solid upgrade item that benefits everyone here..

Did you see if the euro part has TUV certification? That would be huge and I would put a lot of confidence in that.
No, unfortunately I'm not seeing certifications of any sort. Upon further searching, however, I'm finding these things in varying styles and circumferences and lengths from 1" to 6" are indeed available. I'm also finding some ominous posts here but these do relate to decades old incidents and installations where joints were apparently below the trees, an understandable weak point.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...xtensions.html

Here are some links for the interest of those browsing the topic:

https://catalog.zodiac.nl/en/catalog...be-extensions/

http://www.taco-motos.eu/en/front-fo...9mm-forks.html

http://www.dragspecialties.com/produ...umber=04040297

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-49mm-...-/111982414947

Anyhow, despite some very old and nondescript warnings, I remain cautiously optimistic about doing this. My Tree pinch clamps are 1.35" thick so the 2" extension seams will be just 0.65" below the upper tree clamp and internally, the threads of the extension will actually extend, albeit only just over 1/10 th of an inch, into the actual pinch clamp. Then there's the lower tree pinch clamp adding support to the whole shabang.

Again, I appreciate the cautions and will take them seriously, treating the seam area as a matter for regular inspection. I'm still inclined to think that a well made and properly torqued 2" steel extension with a seam supported between the trees, (partially integrated into the top pinch clamp), would be a safe install.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 11:38 AM
  #5513  
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multihdrdr has pointed out something on an old thread where I posted a question:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/frame...l#post16060799

Looks like some version of a 2" slug has been used by the MoCo on other models already !! I'm pleased, needless to say, to see this.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 12:12 PM
  #5514  
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Originally Posted by HKMark23
multihdrdr has pointed out something on an old thread where I posted a question:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/frame...l#post16060799

Looks like some version of a 2" slug has been used by the MoCo on other models already !! I'm pleased, needless to say, to see this.
On the other hand, you gotta ask yourself if H-D is still doing that.....and if not, why?

Just playing the Devil's advocate, man...

FWIW, I'd spring for new tubes just 'cuz it looks a little cleaner. I'm perfectly comfortable tearing the bike apart myself though, soooooo.....
 
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 02:04 PM
  #5515  
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Originally Posted by Roadstrdude
Mods done to a Fatboy rear quick release rack.... welded in a section... and expanded the reach across the fender... then powder coated.... now fitting a HD bag for trips...

Hey man, check your private messages!

HAHAHA!
 

Last edited by NSR; Mar 23, 2017 at 02:07 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 02:38 PM
  #5516  
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Originally Posted by NSR
Yep, I went into the dealership ready to fork over the cash for the set. The parts dude straightened me out. Worked out good.

How did you get the switch out of its mount? You need a special spanner socket for that...I did anyhow....

thanks again NSR. Went to dealership last Saturday with Reg in hand and i have a tumbler that will match my current key on the way. Thanks for that



So when you got your new cylinder and attached the ****, did you go real lite on the set screw? Seeing how we both did the exact same thing it seems that thing need to be tightened slightly. Or did you give the screw a good tightening on your new one???
 
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 02:54 PM
  #5517  
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Originally Posted by wedgemoose
thanks again NSR. Went to dealership last Saturday with Reg in hand and i have a tumbler that will match my current key on the way. Thanks for that



So when you got your new cylinder and attached the ****, did you go real lite on the set screw? Seeing how we both did the exact same thing it seems that thing need to be tightened slightly. Or did you give the screw a good tightening on your new one???
Score! Cool that it worked out right.

After getting the new switch into the bracket and testing it, I cleaned the barrel of the new switch, the inside of the lever, the hole in the lever for the set screw and the set screw itself with acetone. I put some RED Loctite on the barrel of the switch - a drop on the flat and a drop on the side opposite of the flat. I put a drop on the screw and just snugged it down. Don't go full retard on the thing like we did before, LMAO!

I don't want that thing walking off ever again...so far, so good
 
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 03:04 PM
  #5518  
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Originally Posted by NSR
Score! Cool that it worked out right.

After getting the new switch into the bracket and testing it, I cleaned the barrel of the new switch, the inside of the lever, the hole in the lever for the set screw and the set screw itself with acetone. I put some RED Loctite on the barrel of the switch - a drop on the flat and a drop on the side opposite of the flat. I put a drop on the screw and just snugged it down. Don't go full retard on the thing like we did before, LMAO!

I don't want that thing walking off ever again...so far, so good


Loctite on the barrel!!! Good idea. Never even thought of that. Drops on each side sounds perfect. Because I never want to touch or PAY for that thing again. Except when turning it on & off.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 03:10 PM
  #5519  
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What needs done if the whole cylinder is loose inside the grenade? The switch itself is tight. Was looking at it the other day and couldn't figure out how to tighten the whole assembly inside the grenade.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 03:43 PM
  #5520  
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Originally Posted by dabomb6608
What needs done if the whole cylinder is loose inside the grenade? The switch itself is tight. Was looking at it the other day and couldn't figure out how to tighten the whole assembly inside the grenade.
You mean the LEVER is tight on the barrel of the switch, right?

...but the switch itself is loose in the bracket/grenade?

If that's the case, it sounds like the goofy, tamper resistant castle nut that holds the switch into the bracket is a little loose. Harley sells the correct spanner socket for it. On the other hand, wedgemoose says he just did it with the old "Opened Jaws, Tips of Needle Nose Pliers Trick". That's certainly cheaper.

I bought the special socket from H-D...I think it was 20~25 bucks.

I figured that if I sprung for that Odd-Ball, Tri-Wing, Super Special Socket, I'd NEVER have to use it again, HAHAHAHA!!!!
 
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