Apes for my Lo
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 112
Likes: 7
From: NH
Apes for my Lo
Hey guys, new to the harley world and this forum. I have a 2012 denim black fatboy lo and I'm looking at getting bars for the bike. I am really interested in the Carlini Gangster apes 16" 1.5. What exactly would I need to purchase to have these bars work.. Risers, cables, grips, fluids, mirrors? Pretend your talking to someone who is brand new to the idea.. And what would the difference be between 1.25 and 1.5s. Who would I get these things though and if there are any tricks to install or purchasing anything. Thanks in advance guys
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Northampton
Clutch cable
Throttle cable
Brake cable
Wire extensions
Brake fluid
Trans fluid
Cable lube
Trans cover gasket
Derby cover gasket
Exhaust port gaskets (pulling exhaust is easiest way to get to trans cover off the trans)
Urethane riser bushings (a must)
New Grips (at least a replacement left grip if you plan on staying stock)
Shop Service Manual
New mirrors/risers are up to you. Stock ones will usually work
Make life easier and get the Burly kit.
Get ready to spend 7 to 10 hours working on this depending on your skill level. A dealership will quote around 8 hours. Took me 9 and I feel I'm pretty good at working on bikes. I did not pull my exhaust and I spent an extra hour working the trans cover.
Throttle cable
Brake cable
Wire extensions
Brake fluid
Trans fluid
Cable lube
Trans cover gasket
Derby cover gasket
Exhaust port gaskets (pulling exhaust is easiest way to get to trans cover off the trans)
Urethane riser bushings (a must)
New Grips (at least a replacement left grip if you plan on staying stock)
Shop Service Manual
New mirrors/risers are up to you. Stock ones will usually work
Make life easier and get the Burly kit.
Get ready to spend 7 to 10 hours working on this depending on your skill level. A dealership will quote around 8 hours. Took me 9 and I feel I'm pretty good at working on bikes. I did not pull my exhaust and I spent an extra hour working the trans cover.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,986
Likes: 709
From: San Diego
Clutch cable
Throttle cable
Brake cable
Wire extensions
Brake fluid
Trans fluid
Cable lube
Trans cover gasket
Derby cover gasket
Exhaust port gaskets (pulling exhaust is easiest way to get to trans cover off the trans)
Urethane riser bushings (a must)
New Grips (at least a replacement left grip if you plan on staying stock)
Shop Service Manual
New mirrors/risers are up to you. Stock ones will usually work
Make life easier and get the Burly kit.
Get ready to spend 7 to 10 hours working on this depending on your skill level. A dealership will quote around 8 hours. Took me 9 and I feel I'm pretty good at working on bikes. I did not pull my exhaust and I spent an extra hour working the trans cover.
Throttle cable
Brake cable
Wire extensions
Brake fluid
Trans fluid
Cable lube
Trans cover gasket
Derby cover gasket
Exhaust port gaskets (pulling exhaust is easiest way to get to trans cover off the trans)
Urethane riser bushings (a must)
New Grips (at least a replacement left grip if you plan on staying stock)
Shop Service Manual
New mirrors/risers are up to you. Stock ones will usually work
Make life easier and get the Burly kit.
Get ready to spend 7 to 10 hours working on this depending on your skill level. A dealership will quote around 8 hours. Took me 9 and I feel I'm pretty good at working on bikes. I did not pull my exhaust and I spent an extra hour working the trans cover.
Trans fluid you can get away without as well. Just park the bike with a piece of wood under the tires like a 2x8 or something similar. Then when you put it on the stand it should lean over enough that you won't lose much, if any, fluid from the trans when you pull the side cover. You definitely should replace this gasket though, as it is paper.
Also, if you don't have stock exhaust, you may not need to remove the exhaust to pull the trans side cover. I did not need to.
As for cable lube, most cables should come pre lubed when new. My magnum shielding cables did.
Factory grips should come off, even the left side. Just twist the **** out of it and it should come. I did not have to cut my stock left grip off on my Breakout.
As for risers and handlebar diameter, that is up to you. Your stock risers accommodate a 1.25" diameter clamping surface. Most handlebars are 1" at the clamping surface, even the 1.5" bars from Carlini, etc. Pay special attention to what diameter the bars are at the clamping surface. If you find bars you like that are 1.25" then great, if not you will need to swap risers, or use a 1" to 1.25" adapter from Wild 1.
Good luck, it isn't as hard as it sounds if you have any wrenching experience.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Northampton
24v, you are absolutely right. There are a few corners you can cut to lower costs.
The service manual tells you to drain the trans fluid before popping off the cover. Also, when I installed the new clutch cable, I performed a clutch adjustment to ensure everything was setup correctly. Actually adjusting the rod could be skipped.
I never tried to get the left grip loose. I'm guessing a mild amount of heat could loosen the glue grip. I did try this one a few bikes in the past and never had luck with it. When or if I ever sell the original bars, I'll include the stock grips.
Cable lube... might be lubed but with what? I like the lube i use and it's a small amount of insurance.
Exhaust...Mine was stock at the time of handlebar change and I worked around it. If the exhaust is aftermarket, it could likely be easier to remove the cover. That's a decision the OP has to make. Also, if it's the first time the exhaust is off, he could likely reuse the old gaskets without any issues.
The service manual tells you to drain the trans fluid before popping off the cover. Also, when I installed the new clutch cable, I performed a clutch adjustment to ensure everything was setup correctly. Actually adjusting the rod could be skipped.
I never tried to get the left grip loose. I'm guessing a mild amount of heat could loosen the glue grip. I did try this one a few bikes in the past and never had luck with it. When or if I ever sell the original bars, I'll include the stock grips.
Cable lube... might be lubed but with what? I like the lube i use and it's a small amount of insurance.
Exhaust...Mine was stock at the time of handlebar change and I worked around it. If the exhaust is aftermarket, it could likely be easier to remove the cover. That's a decision the OP has to make. Also, if it's the first time the exhaust is off, he could likely reuse the old gaskets without any issues.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 306
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
Here's a easy way to get your left grip off, use a thin bladed screwdriver and run it in
from the open end while shooting WD40 along the blade as you slide it in. Just be careful
as you slide it in to keep it close to the bar so as to not run it through the grip. Once
you get close to the outer end of the grip with the screwdriver stop, grab the grip with
both hands and twist hard. It should break loose. Before re-installing on new bars use
a round wire brush and lacquer thinner to get the old adhesive out.
from the open end while shooting WD40 along the blade as you slide it in. Just be careful
as you slide it in to keep it close to the bar so as to not run it through the grip. Once
you get close to the outer end of the grip with the screwdriver stop, grab the grip with
both hands and twist hard. It should break loose. Before re-installing on new bars use
a round wire brush and lacquer thinner to get the old adhesive out.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 112
Likes: 7
From: NH
Well thanks for all the help. I'm prob gonna purchase the Carlini 16" 1.5 gangster apes.. So I will have to get a 1.5 riser setup.. Will the burley 16" cable setup work for these?? And I'm pretty sure my bike didn't come with risers since the bars are like the street slammer bars, unless I'm completely wrong. Which I might be. So the stock grips and controls should work on these bars cuz I don't want to have to buy stuff I won't need. I got a buddy who's a mechanic and is gonna help me out. I just want to make sure I get everything right the first time so the bike is not incapacitated for too long. Thanks again and sorry if I'm repeating questions. I just want it to be right.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Northampton
Burly bases their cable length off a 2" riser. Therefore, the 16" cable kit will work.
My bike has 16" bars with a 4.5" riser. I went with the 18" wire kit and everything worked out great.
My bike has 16" bars with a 4.5" riser. I went with the 18" wire kit and everything worked out great.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 112
Likes: 7
From: NH
Sorry to beat a dead horse but I was looking at Magnum shielding cables in the black pearl.. If I were to order my cables from them which would I need?? I've ordered the 16" gangsters 1.5. So I know they run a little tall. I want to make sure I order the right cables and the right lengths. I will also need to order the wire extension from Namz (which one should I go with from them?). That is where I'm having the most confusion because i know I need a new riser and I have the fluids. I just want to make sure I order the correct cables (and all the cables) and right wire extensions. If anyone has specific part numbers or can Atleast guide me in the right direction it would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.