How important is the compensator sprocket?
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Illinois
Many makes that do not have compensators have slipper clutches to accomplish the same thing. My 07 Kawasaki Nomad 1600 came with a slipper clutch. Simple system. If you down shifted hard the clutch just "slipped" A side effect of that is the clutch wears out faster.
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Joined: May 2014
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From: Fort Worth, TX
You don't need to remove it to install a new front pulley/sprocket, but you will need to remove it to change the belt as the belt goes around the pivot shaft...
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Stellar HDF Member
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From: Lethbridge, Alberta Canada
And, if like me, you have a rear pulley whose finish and machining match a custom rear wheel (HD chrome Turbine wheels), you CAN'T find a pulley with a different diameter that will match!
I did all the analysis over a year ago, and found that to really change the gearing, including correcting the numerical drive ratio in the ECM programming so that the speedometer and ABS don't get screwed up, the real cost would be $1000 or more, unless you have the time, skills, and tools to handle primary and front belt pulley removal.
HD has made it very difficult and costly.
Jim G
Last edited by JimGnitecki; Oct 31, 2015 at 09:01 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Kane County IL
The whole reason for the thread is ridiculous. Every bike I have ever ridden may need some clutch modulation in tight slow speed corners! This is a fact of life and is what being a skilled motorcyclist is about. This is what separates the beginners from the accomplished. Clutch modulation does not mean a loss of control. If you want a bike that can go around a tight turn without having to control drive and engine speed with the clutch ("and just leave the clutch out") then get an automatic transmission.
"HD gearing is ridiculous 51 MPH in first gear" Too funny, I find the gearing to be fine, very easy to launch and ride these bikes. FYI the R1 I had would do 100 MPH in first gear everything stock, stupid Yamaha too I Guess huh....?
"HD gearing is ridiculous 51 MPH in first gear" Too funny, I find the gearing to be fine, very easy to launch and ride these bikes. FYI the R1 I had would do 100 MPH in first gear everything stock, stupid Yamaha too I Guess huh....?
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Lethbridge, Alberta Canada
The whole reason for the thread is ridiculous. Every bike I have ever ridden may need some clutch modulation in tight slow speed corners! This is a fact of life and is what being a skilled motorcyclist is about. This is what separates the beginners from the accomplished. Clutch modulation does not mean a loss of control. If you want a bike that can go around a tight turn without having to control drive and engine speed with the clutch ("and just leave the clutch out") then get an automatic transmission.
"HD gearing is ridiculous 51 MPH in first gear" Too funny, I find the gearing to be fine, very easy to launch and ride these bikes. FYI the R1 I had would do 100 MPH in first gear everything stock, stupid Yamaha too I Guess huh....?
"HD gearing is ridiculous 51 MPH in first gear" Too funny, I find the gearing to be fine, very easy to launch and ride these bikes. FYI the R1 I had would do 100 MPH in first gear everything stock, stupid Yamaha too I Guess huh....?
51 mph in 1st gear IS ridiculous. Yes, some other motorcycle and cars have similar gearing, but there is a reason for both. For the cars, it is to get the last few mpg of fuel mileage to meet CAFE standards. It DOES result in very impaired performance. For the motorcycles, it is because the bikes are "race replicas" built to be sold on the basis of your being able to do 160 to 200 mph, and they need to be geared that way in order to keep the gaps between gears sensible FOR THAT KIND OF RACE TRACK RIDING. But that makes them very impaired in NORMAL TRAFFIC riding OFF of any race track. The people that buy them either accept that or are too ignorant to understand why their bike feels so gutless around town unless they speed all the time AND keep the rpm insanely high. Of course, some people LIKE that kind of riding.
Jim G
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Rome, NY
To clarify: If you change the front BELT pulley (not the compensator / engine pulley) to try to get better overall gearing, the belt length will become too long for the smaller front belt pulley, forcing you to either take off the swingarm to change belt size, or to find a larger rear belt pulley that works with the new front pulley to give you the gearing you want.
And, if like me, you have a rear pulley whose finish and machining match a custom rear wheel (HD chrome Turbine wheels), you CAN'T find a pulley with a different diameter that will match!
I did all the analysis over a year ago, and found that to really change the gearing, including correcting the numerical drive ratio in the ECM programming so that the speedometer and ABS don't get screwed up, the real cost would be $1000 or more, unless you have the time, skills, and tools to handle primary and front belt pulley removal.
HD has made it very difficult and costly.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Lethbridge, Alberta Canada
Jim, I'm not sure why you're adverse to going to an open primary solution, but as I've said before, Primo's setup for the BO would give you the change in ratio you're looking for - 1.55:1 as opposed to the stock 1.35:1. My Speedo & ABS weren't affected, but the gear indicator was confused.
A Rivera-Primo belt drive would be fine.
As above, the speedo & ABS weren't affected - gear indicator yes. I'm not a hard core wrencher, and I changed over in a couple of hours. In fact, it was darn right easy until I had to remove everything again to change the stator seal that was leaking. You do have to buy one tool to remove the race on the tranny, but that's available on eBay.
Well, it's actually easy, but a Primo belt drive for the BO will run you $2K+ (I got mine for 2K - list was $2400 then.
A Rivera-Primo belt drive would be fine.
As above, the speedo & ABS weren't affected - gear indicator yes. I'm not a hard core wrencher, and I changed over in a couple of hours. In fact, it was darn right easy until I had to remove everything again to change the stator seal that was leaking. You do have to buy one tool to remove the race on the tranny, but that's available on eBay.
Well, it's actually easy, but a Primo belt drive for the BO will run you $2K+ (I got mine for 2K - list was $2400 then.
The belt drive also makes an already wide bike even wider, or at least it LOOKS like it would.
The open belt drive is also a safety hazard.
One reason that the belt drive might work ok without a compensator is that the belt by its nature helps to absorb vibration and drivetrain shocks.
How long does a belt in a belt drive last? Is it something that needs to be replaced regularly? (since there is no apparent way to compensate for belt stretch like there is on a final belt drive)
The gear indicator thing is solved easily IF you also have a Powervision. There is apparently a numerical field that you simply adjust.
Jim G
Jim G
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; May 15, 2016 at 10:27 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: TOAK western branch
It's new. Look up The Game Changer in Amazon. I know a guy running it on his 150+ hp 124" and loves it.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Lethbridge, Alberta Canada
Rivera Primo Gear Ratio Game Changer 1066-0050
It gives you a 1.44/1.36 = 1.06 gearing change (i.e. a 6% change), while retaining the compensator. In fact, it REQUIRES a 2011 or later compensator. The kit includes a new primary chain, a new chain tensioner spacer, and a sprocket that has to be mounted to the compensator.
It's under $200 shipped. Of course, you will need to either provide the labor plus fresh primary lubricant and gasket, or pay a shop. I have no idea what the labor, gasket, and fresh lubricant would total up to.
The 6% change will make a noticeable difference, while raising the rpm at 60 mpg by only a bit more than 100 rpm.
Sounds good!
Can anyone knowledgeable provide a cost estimate for the labor, gasket, and fresh lubricant? (I have no garage to do that sort of even simple mod in)
Jim G