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So, if you want to add numbers to your Dyno sheet you need even more air in and more air out. That's done with changing the bore, the stroke, heads and valves. That's all more air in and more air out. All of that of course is getting fuel to it and the lift of cams. More fuel in and more lift from the cams to allow more in and out.
Not really.... actually what controls how much air and fuel can go into the combustion chamber is the cams, they control how long the valves are open to let air and fuel into the cylinder. bottom line is bigger cams should let more air and fuel in and out faster and it should make more power, not as much as it would by also changing the size of the combustion chamber but still more.
OP the only reason i can think of that your bike shouldnt have made more power is that the new pipes lost a bunch... and would have with the old cams, do you still have the old pipes?? dyno it with them and see what it says
Not really.... actually what controls how much air and fuel can go into the combustion chamber is the cams, they control how long the valves are open to let air and fuel into the cylinder. bottom line is bigger cams should let more air and fuel in and out faster and it should make more power, not as much as it would by also changing the size of the combustion chamber but still more.
OP the only reason i can think of that your bike shouldnt have made more power is that the new pipes lost a bunch... and would have with the old cams, do you still have the old pipes?? dyno it with them and see what it says
Yeah, I still have them, but I'd also like having the $400 they'd charge me to dyno it again. Unless they plan to fund a change (VERY unlikely) I'm staying where I am.
The problem with YOUR comparison being offered here is that your Stage 1 was completely ineffective; The 65 rwhp it shows is what a typical COMPLETELY STOCK big twin shows on the dyno.
Your addition of the cam was NOT what made the huge difference when you added it. During the cam install, somebody undid something that was WRONG before that cam swap was made. A stage 1 kit, withOUT the cam, should have moved your bike from approx 65 rwhp to 75 to 80 rwhp, depending on exact exhaust and air intake used.
Jim G
As often done in here I explained the first Dyno sheet I show WAS my BASE run After they added the SE/ac and Rush muffs.. But A base run means Before it was tuned ..
I had to get a new computer last yr and I cant/don't have a way to show my sheet anymore of my After tune of the STG 1..
I will say it because I have hard copies that it was 82#'s Tq and 70 HP,, Which is only a couple #'s of TQ and HP low end of Normal
I know other have reported more 90#'s of TQ and 80Hp for their Stg1 96'ers, but, that is not the norm..
Where I had mine done (by one of the best tuners here in Ind) and I looked through their book of dyno results and saw over 50 sheets of dyno's and my 82#'s tq and 70 hp was almost average for a tuned Stg 1 - 96'', B motor.
Don't believe me... go Back and look through some the STG1 dyno's that was printed here in this Thread from the start..!
I know other have reported more 90#'s of TQ and 80Hp for their Stg1 96'ers, but, that is not the norm..
Where I had mine done (by one of the best tuners here in Ind) and I looked through their book of dyno results and saw over 50 sheets of dyno's and my 82#'s tq and 70 hp was almost average for a tuned Stg 1 - 96'', B motor.
Don't believe me... go Back and look through some the STG1 dyno's that was printed here in this Thread from the start..!
That's because most people won't pay the cost of a good tune ($350 or more) to go with the Stage 1 air intake and exhaust changes. I have heard the service writers at my local HD dealership tell customers who are experiencing sticker shock that "you don't HAVE to do the tune right now", in order to not lose the Stage 1 sale. So, the customers don't really get all they could have gotten. Then, later, they have the cams done, and are told they MUST get the tune, so they then get all the benefits of the cam PLUS the Stage 1 benefits they did not see by bypassing the Stage 1 tune.
Hmmm, I thought I said bigger cams, heads and valves for more air in and more out!! Oh well, anyway, if you do bigger cams and valves and do not touch the cylinder bore, you have done your bike and build an injustice.
My point was that 1 performance mod does not always translate into more power and torque. That is why they sell "kits" but I can assure you, they are hoping you by one piece, one mod at a tme. They make out like fat cats selling things, performance mods, 1 at a time.
My comment on a Dyno holds true. It pulls everything together, corrects the fuel issues and allows it to run a little cooler.
Hmmm, I thought I said bigger cams, heads and valves for more air in and more out!! Oh well, anyway, if you do bigger cams and valves and do not touch the cylinder bore, you have done your bike and build an injustice.
My point was that 1 performance mod does not always translate into more power and torque. That is why they sell "kits" but I can assure you, they are hoping you by one piece, one mod at a tme. They make out like fat cats selling things, performance mods, 1 at a time.
My comment on a Dyno holds true. It pulls everything together, corrects the fuel issues and allows it to run a little cooler.
I totally agree, i wanted more power and i soon realised i could not do one without doing the other if i wanted some serious change in power and performance.
IMO a cam is like a great temperamental actor. You give them exactly what they want and they will create a masterpiece, you don't and they will bring down the performance of all those around them. A couple of thoughts about what could be going on here: as stated before, the change in exhaust alone could have netted a loss in numbers and the gains from the cams could just be compensating for the loss, so no real gain in the overall numbers. Another thought is what led you to choose the 204 cams? Did your tech talk to you about your riding style and expectations of these mods? If you look at the chart in the SE catalog the 204 only has .024" more lift, look at your feeler gauge set, it's not much. The big difference between the stock cams and the 204 is the valve timing, which for the most part is going to affect where the power happens in the RPM range. The other thing that I question is the ability of the tech that performed the dyno tune. You stated that he has a title and some sort of pedigree, I have worked in shops at the dealership level in heavy truck/equipment fields, most of the time in my experience these guys aren't always the best hands on guys. You may want to post about your situation in the SE tuner threads, there are a lot of sharp guys on here and they may be able to spot something wrong with your tune. It may not be your parts it may just be that the tune needs further adjustment.
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