Stator/Alternator replacement
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 25
Likes: 6
From: California
Stator/Alternator replacement
I have a 2009 Deluxe and my stator fried this weekend. Question...is the stator on the bike just right under the compensator or do I have to remove something else? Any help would be great.
Thanks
Thanks
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 970
Likes: 19
From: Philippines
Without going into complete detail, I'll give you an overview.
The stator is located inside the Stator Rotor which is behind the compensator. You must remove the compensator to access it however the Primary Chain does not have enough slack to clear the sprocket teeth therefore the Clutch Basket, Compensator, and Primary Chain must all be removed simultaneously. You'll need a few specialty tools; large sockets, snap ring pliers, torque wrench. Note: the retaining nut on the clutch basket is a left hand thread.
I don't want to sound rude but this is not a job for a novice. At a minimum you should get yourself a Harley Service Manual. I'm curious as to how you determined that the stator is faulty.
The stator is located inside the Stator Rotor which is behind the compensator. You must remove the compensator to access it however the Primary Chain does not have enough slack to clear the sprocket teeth therefore the Clutch Basket, Compensator, and Primary Chain must all be removed simultaneously. You'll need a few specialty tools; large sockets, snap ring pliers, torque wrench. Note: the retaining nut on the clutch basket is a left hand thread.
I don't want to sound rude but this is not a job for a novice. At a minimum you should get yourself a Harley Service Manual. I'm curious as to how you determined that the stator is faulty.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 494
Likes: 63
From: Bay Area, CA
Without going into complete detail, I'll give you an overview.
The stator is located inside the Stator Rotor which is behind the compensator. You must remove the compensator to access it however the Primary Chain does not have enough slack to clear the sprocket teeth therefore the Clutch Basket, Compensator, and Primary Chain must all be removed simultaneously. You'll need a few specialty tools; large sockets, snap ring pliers, torque wrench. Note: the retaining nut on the clutch basket is a left hand thread.
I don't want to sound rude but this is not a job for a novice. At a minimum you should get yourself a Harley Service Manual. I'm curious as to how you determined that the stator is faulty.
The stator is located inside the Stator Rotor which is behind the compensator. You must remove the compensator to access it however the Primary Chain does not have enough slack to clear the sprocket teeth therefore the Clutch Basket, Compensator, and Primary Chain must all be removed simultaneously. You'll need a few specialty tools; large sockets, snap ring pliers, torque wrench. Note: the retaining nut on the clutch basket is a left hand thread.
I don't want to sound rude but this is not a job for a novice. At a minimum you should get yourself a Harley Service Manual. I'm curious as to how you determined that the stator is faulty.
The video and a shop manual were all I needed. Good luck!
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 25
Likes: 6
From: California
Without going into complete detail, I'll give you an overview.
The stator is located inside the Stator Rotor which is behind the compensator. You must remove the compensator to access it however the Primary Chain does not have enough slack to clear the sprocket teeth therefore the Clutch Basket, Compensator, and Primary Chain must all be removed simultaneously. You'll need a few specialty tools; large sockets, snap ring pliers, torque wrench. Note: the retaining nut on the clutch basket is a left hand thread.
I don't want to sound rude but this is not a job for a novice. At a minimum you should get yourself a Harley Service Manual. I'm curious as to how you determined that the stator is faulty.
The stator is located inside the Stator Rotor which is behind the compensator. You must remove the compensator to access it however the Primary Chain does not have enough slack to clear the sprocket teeth therefore the Clutch Basket, Compensator, and Primary Chain must all be removed simultaneously. You'll need a few specialty tools; large sockets, snap ring pliers, torque wrench. Note: the retaining nut on the clutch basket is a left hand thread.
I don't want to sound rude but this is not a job for a novice. At a minimum you should get yourself a Harley Service Manual. I'm curious as to how you determined that the stator is faulty.
~Garry~
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 25
Likes: 6
From: California
Did you have to remove the clutch basket? Also did you buy the other tool they were using on the you tube video? The one to remove the outer shell of the alternator, behind the compensator? If so what part number is that?
Thanks,
Garry
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 852
Likes: 54
From: Dallas tx
I think there is a Screaming Eagle version of the stator that is supposed to be much better than the stock one. It's not much more than the stock, but is supposed to last forever..
Trending Topics
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 272
From: Canton, GA
It cost me $227.52 to replace the 32 amp stator, that's out the door price with gaskets, primary fluid and insp cover gasket
The receipt says it was 2 hours of labor
You need to find an honest independent shop
The receipt says it was 2 hours of labor
You need to find an honest independent shop
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
The Best and Worst Harley-Davidson Moves of 2025
Verdad Gallardo
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 970
Likes: 19
From: Philippines
2009 Deluxe,
Your Harley dealer must have performed an AC Output and Grounding test on your stator to determine that it's faulty. If you have basic mechanical skills and a service manual you can perform the replacement yourself. Here are a few tips and reminders:
-It's sometimes possible to reuse the outer primary gasket but advisable to have a new gasket handy on your spare parts shelf just in case.
-Mark the outside of the primary chain and reinstall it in the same orientation so that it travels in the same direction.
-The Clutch Basket retaining nut is a Left Hand Thread!!!
-The magnets in the stator rotor prevent it from easily sliding off. Cut and bend 2 pieces of a metal coat hanger into 90 degree hooks to use as tools. Insert these hooks into the holes in the rotor to pull it off. No need to purchase any special tool.
-The stator has a rubber plug which must be inserted through a hole in the primary case. A little dielectric grease on the plug helps it slip through this hole. Insure that the plug is seated properly otherwise it may leak primary fluid.
-Use Loctite on the Compensator and Clutch Basket nuts and torque them to specs.
-Use dielectric grease on the stator and regulator connection to prevent corrosion.
-While you're working in the area, insure that the Regulator ground wire is has a good, clean contact. Most regulators fail due to a poor ground connection.
If your shopping for parts check out "Cycle Electric". Quality charging system components, Made in the USA with a 2 year warranty. Cost is roughly the same as HD.
Your Harley dealer must have performed an AC Output and Grounding test on your stator to determine that it's faulty. If you have basic mechanical skills and a service manual you can perform the replacement yourself. Here are a few tips and reminders:
-It's sometimes possible to reuse the outer primary gasket but advisable to have a new gasket handy on your spare parts shelf just in case.
-Mark the outside of the primary chain and reinstall it in the same orientation so that it travels in the same direction.
-The Clutch Basket retaining nut is a Left Hand Thread!!!
-The magnets in the stator rotor prevent it from easily sliding off. Cut and bend 2 pieces of a metal coat hanger into 90 degree hooks to use as tools. Insert these hooks into the holes in the rotor to pull it off. No need to purchase any special tool.
-The stator has a rubber plug which must be inserted through a hole in the primary case. A little dielectric grease on the plug helps it slip through this hole. Insure that the plug is seated properly otherwise it may leak primary fluid.
-Use Loctite on the Compensator and Clutch Basket nuts and torque them to specs.
-Use dielectric grease on the stator and regulator connection to prevent corrosion.
-While you're working in the area, insure that the Regulator ground wire is has a good, clean contact. Most regulators fail due to a poor ground connection.
If your shopping for parts check out "Cycle Electric". Quality charging system components, Made in the USA with a 2 year warranty. Cost is roughly the same as HD.
Last edited by olongapo1; Jul 28, 2014 at 05:46 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,301
Likes: 52
From: Hinton, Alberta
I just changed mine a week ago. I managed to get a few extensions and a 1/4" allen wrench through to the starter and get it off and then the primary cover. Didn't have to take half the bike apart. You can take the compensator almost off after you take the chain tensioner off without taking off the clutch, but the compensator will hit the primary cover,,,,,,just barely hits it. I took the clutch off then got the starter as mentioned above and did the change out that way. After I did the job and had things back together and running I talked to some guys I know and they each had to change their staters,,,,what they did was ground a little off the inner side of the primary housing when they did their change out. I will be doing that next time I go it,,,there is very little that has to come off to make it work. Pull your compensator out till it hits the housing,,,,you'll it almost comes off. Harley R&D needs to get on top of things and make life easier for everyone.