Gotta vent
Since I needed a tire anyway, I gave it to my local bike shop(H-D guy) and had him put the bearings in and replace the tire. For a few bucks labor it was easier then me fighting it on the floor. I got tools but sometimes I just rather give the local guy a few bucks. Then when I do have a question I'm not just the guy always looking for something "free".
Pretty sure the axle only fits in one way on the forks, due to the one side having a clamp bolt to keep it from rotating. I did torque mine to 60lb/ft and all is well.
As for over torque? Not really sure that could damage anything UNLESS the spacer is incorrect. You are clamping the inner races together and then relying on the outer races to be in the correct position(in the wheel hub) as to not apply too much preload(sideload) to the bearing when it is torqued. Unlike a typical car front hub which is tapered bearings and you have to set the preload, these ball bearings rely on the spacer.
If you have some calipers(machinist tool, not brakes) and could measure the width of the hub at the inner pocket of where the bearings ride, then measure the spacer and see how the numbers compare. Spacer should only be a few thousands thinner to just put some preload on it.
Since I needed a tire anyway, I gave it to my local bike shop(H-D guy) and had him put the bearings in and replace the tire. For a few bucks labor it was easier then me fighting it on the floor. I got tools but sometimes I just rather give the local guy a few bucks. Then when I do have a question I'm not just the guy always looking for something "free".
Pretty sure the axle only fits in one way on the forks, due to the one side having a clamp bolt to keep it from rotating. I did torque mine to 60lb/ft and all is well.
As for over torque? Not really sure that could damage anything UNLESS the spacer is incorrect. You are clamping the inner races together and then relying on the outer races to be in the correct position(in the wheel hub) as to not apply too much preload(sideload) to the bearing when it is torqued. Unlike a typical car front hub which is tapered bearings and you have to set the preload, these ball bearings rely on the spacer.
If you have some calipers(machinist tool, not brakes) and could measure the width of the hub at the inner pocket of where the bearings ride, then measure the spacer and see how the numbers compare. Spacer should only be a few thousands thinner to just put some preload on it.
I just took off my wheel and the bearing on the side of the wheel that doesn't have the rotor on it is shot (the right side). The inner race wobbles and binds.
When I stick my finger in the hub and try to wiggle the spacer inside it definitely wiggles (and it's not just cause the one bearing is bad). I made sure to hold the inner race of the bad bearing still while wiggling the spacer. But the play is soooo very minor (it barely moves but there is a very tiny bit of play). Tiny as in less than 1/16 of an inch, probably not even half that.
I'm gonna point this out to him and get his feedback. I know last year I pointed it out to him and he told me that much play was fine. I tend to think its fine because I spent this entire season riding it without any issues untill I torqued on the axle nut.
I guess right now it's a waiting game till Thursday when I get the replacement bearings.
If you notice there is a line scored on the right side of the spacer. According to how it's pictured in the shop manual the side with that line scored on it faces away from the wheel. Just want to confirm this is correct and I'm not misreading it in the manual.
Can any one help with that one?
Sorry for the grease on the pages. I've put this shop manual through a lot doing all my own work lolol
by the way....are the bearings in the wheels you have now the same size as the factory bearings?
by the way....are the bearings in the wheels you have now the same size as the factory bearings?
To be honest with you man I'm almost 100% sure it was my dumb *** who caused the failure by putting so much torque on the axle bolt. I probably put like 120 ft lbs and then some on that ****er.
As far as the bearings that are in the whee right now, they are definitely HD bearings cause I can see it stamped on the bearing itself. And I'm assuming that they are the same size as the factory ones. When I had the custom wheel first installed on the bike I had the dealership do it. That was before I stopped being intimidated and nervous of doing all my own maintenance.
So unfortunately because of that I can't say with certainty that they are the same size or not as the stock ones.
Most repairs can be made with tools we have in our tool boxes. But other repairs we need to use the right tool for the job. In this instance we need to use the right tool to the repair right. The toll to use for wheel bearing removal is the, Harley Bearing Removal and Installer Tool. There is the actual tool from Harley/Jims that cost some. And there are after market ones that cost less. They will do the exact same job as the Harley one will do.
This tool will remove the bearings without damaging the inner spacer. And it will put the bearings back in the exact sequence they need to be installed.
Here is a link to the instructions on how to remove and install the bearings correctly. And shows the Harley tool.
http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US...ts/-J04938.pdf
I'll eventually get that wheel bearing removal tool though. I don't trust the dealership. It's so sad they can barely do an oil change and that's it.
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