Tuner?
It is all about flow, your fuel injection is programmed for a specific flow rate at a specific engine RPM and %Throttle open (AFR). Basically air fuel ration per varying Cubic feet per minute(CFM). Anything you do to change CFM will change AFR. Opening the exhaust will allow more flow until you reach max CFM of the air cleaner and or back plate. Some back plates have smaller holes than the throttle body bore and act as a restrictor plate. If you change the mufflers and change the back plate and change the filter you will definatly change the AFR/CFM and run lean. A stock bike already runs lean so do yourself a favor and get a tuner. The bike will run cooler, have better performance, and you will have peace of mind.
You will be fine without a tuner. Never rely on a tuners advertisement to get the facts, and never listen to anyone who tells you what they read in a tuners advertisement.
http://www.nightrider.com/parts/ied_faq.htm
It will take a bit for it to adjust just dont run around the block and expect it to relearn everything. Go for a 50 mile city and highway run getting after it a few times and you will be right back to running stoich again.
http://www.nightrider.com/parts/ied_faq.htm
It will take a bit for it to adjust just dont run around the block and expect it to relearn everything. Go for a 50 mile city and highway run getting after it a few times and you will be right back to running stoich again.
I put probably 500 miles on my bike with new pipes before I tuned it. It ran hot and popped on decel, neither of which improved over time. In fact my engine killed itself while I was rolling down the street one day it got so hot. No permanent damage as far as I can tell, just waited a bit to let it cool before I fired it back up, and no issues since. Also, my stock pipes that my slip ons attached to started to turn a brass color, which didn't happen until I was running the bike with the new slip ons but before I tuned it. All of this happened in September, whilst the months of July and August are 10 degrees hotter on average. What should theoretically happen and what actually does happen may not always jive. In my case it did not.
Mine would decel pop 100% stock. When I opened the pipes it was much louder, so one may not notice it with stock pipes. When I opened the air cleaner up it ran the same as it did before, just sucked air in better and wound up faster instead of laboring to suck air in. About 20K miles later I put X14IEDs on it. Decel pop was eliminated, the low speed lean surge that is there 100% stock and with opened up breathing and farting was gone. The buggers are worth it for that alone. Them 20K I ran on open pipes and open air cleaner was in NC over two summers. Got to 114F, was over 100 several times and I rode highway and urban mix when I was down there. Never overheated or acted like it was running worse. Oil temp with conventional or synthetic was 210 in the worst heat.
As long as the O2 sensors are doing their job it will add or reduce fuel till it gets the mix the computer says it should be reading. Only way to stop that from happening is to reprogram it, fool it, or eliminate them. If the sensors are in and the stock tune is run, it will run the same AFR.
On another note. Them expensive tuners will run the same exact AFR in closed loop as the stock tune does. It is required to be street legal. If they do not run at EPA compliant AFRs then it will be clearly marked not legal for street use/offroad use only. Otherwise you are paying for what you already have. Open loop blah blah blah. The bike is going 0mph at idle in open loop and when you WOT it, how long are you doing it. Be wary of tuners and their advertisements, its mostly lies and they will do anything to get you to pay for what you already got.
As long as the O2 sensors are doing their job it will add or reduce fuel till it gets the mix the computer says it should be reading. Only way to stop that from happening is to reprogram it, fool it, or eliminate them. If the sensors are in and the stock tune is run, it will run the same AFR.
On another note. Them expensive tuners will run the same exact AFR in closed loop as the stock tune does. It is required to be street legal. If they do not run at EPA compliant AFRs then it will be clearly marked not legal for street use/offroad use only. Otherwise you are paying for what you already have. Open loop blah blah blah. The bike is going 0mph at idle in open loop and when you WOT it, how long are you doing it. Be wary of tuners and their advertisements, its mostly lies and they will do anything to get you to pay for what you already got.
http://www.drdyno.com/AIM_2010-07.html
Dr Dyno info around 14.7:1 Stoichiometric AFR and why your stock narrow band system will never compensate for changes to the flow rate of your air cooled V twin.
Dr Dyno info around 14.7:1 Stoichiometric AFR and why your stock narrow band system will never compensate for changes to the flow rate of your air cooled V twin.
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The 2014 Sporty is a different beast. I could not get the popping to stop with a set of Night Rider VIED'S and Vance & Hines pipes.
Installed a Fuel Motor Micro EFI and still had deceleration popping in the 2300-2550 range. Two more maps from Fuel Moto and the popping was finally gone.
What may have worked for 2013 models and older doesn't necessarily apply to the 2014 and up models.
This is coming from someone who has had 17 different bike's in the garage since 2002.
Installed a Fuel Motor Micro EFI and still had deceleration popping in the 2300-2550 range. Two more maps from Fuel Moto and the popping was finally gone.
What may have worked for 2013 models and older doesn't necessarily apply to the 2014 and up models.
This is coming from someone who has had 17 different bike's in the garage since 2002.
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