I'm looking for a recommendation for a replacement clutch for a 2007 Custom with 20K miles. I recently took it to my Indy for a service. When it came back, the clutch would sometimes work properly and smoothly, and sometimes it sticks. It doesn't matter how I adjust it, it does the same thing. I checked the fluid level and that's good. Considering the problems with the Sporty clutch, I figure it's about time to replace it.

So, what are the best after-market clutches available for the Sporty and, if you've got one, tell me what you like about it.

 

Energy One is one of the more popular clutches with the high performance (100+ HP) crowd, but not really necessary for a stock or stage 1 bike.

The problem with the stock clutch is the Spring Plate in the stock pack. That can be removed and replaced with 2 steel and 1 friction plates. (This makes the same thing as the HD SE clutch pack)

The plates are available from HD or JP Cycles.
This info is about 5 years old so prices are likely higher now:

J&P Cycles
630-571 FRICTION PLATE 4.99
620-676 STEEL DRIVE PLATE 6.99

 

I recently did this. 2013 48... But there are several threads that you can follow where everything is explained...

Here is mine:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...-eight-52.html

in addition to the clutch pack (or plates if only changing the spring plate), have a new retaining clip and spring seat. Best to use a new one when installing everything back. In my case, with such low mileage (less than 4K), everything looked like new, so I kept the new ones as spare for any future job in there (but I hope I never need them, lol ).

Steps outline in workshop manual (All this was done on a 2013 48 with less than 4K miles on it...so the references are for a workshop manual of that year):



Section 5.3 (page5-4) for Primary Cover removal
Section 5.4
For Removal of clutch pack: Page 5-8 ; Step 1-4 and Page 5-10 ; Steps 2,3,4,5,and 7
For Assembly of clutch pack: Page 5-12 ; Step 1,3,4,7,8,9,10,11,12,13

Part numbers of what it is required: I order most of it through Amazon and saved a few $$

Gaskets I got as a , but here is the breakdown with parts number
Primary Cover Gasket - Part Number: 34955-04
Inspection Cover Gasket - Part Number: 34990-08
Derby Cover Gasket (quad ring) - Part Number: 25463-94A
O-rings - Part Number: (2) 11171 for Inspection cover, (1) 11105 for Oil drain plug, (1) 11179 for Clutch cable
Shift Bushing - Part Number: 40574-06 (not sure if I needed, but just in case)
Shifter Shaft Oil Seal - Part Number: 37107-06
2 quarts Formula+ primary lubricant - Part Number: 62600004 (Only one is needed but I want to change the oil again in about 500-1000 miles)
Spring Seat - Part number 37872-90 (Recommended to have a new one ready to use when installing everything back)
Retaining Ring - Part Number: 37908-90 (Recommended to have a new one ready to use when installing everything back)
Clutch pack: I went with Energy One with the 15% stronger spring-
And the tool (must have the right tools for the job) -


Total was 189.83 for the parts listed including shipping (minus the oil, spring seat, and retaining ring, that I bought at the local dealer).

And the reason I did this with a bike with such a low mileage? For peace of mind. After seeing photos of this:

This is a picture of the stock spring plate. The two plates are held together with the springs that are riveted with brass rivets which sheared off. The assembly is in between the regular clutch plates.





I did not wanted to take the risk of that happening to mine... some folks can go 80K miles without issues, others with as little as 15K miles have problems with the bronze rivets giving away and messing up the clutch basket.... a costly repair.

As mentioned, you can replace that spring plate with two steel plates and one friction plate, or replace the complete clutch pack with a Screaming Eagle Clutch kit, or aftermarket from Barnett or Energy 1... Depending on what clutch you go with, pay attention to the oil recommended by the vendor. If I remember correctly, the HD SE and Energy One option will allow you to continue to use the Formula+... Can't remember if Barnett recommends something different.

 

Thanks for the information, Fellas. This is very helpful. I hope to start accumulating parts (and tools) in the next week.

 

You can have my old spring plate if you want.

 

Here's one of the best videos on YouTube of how it's done. May cut down on some reading for you Roni. I have almost 22K on my 08 1200C and I worry about my clutch every time I ride now. But then again my buddy has 55K on his 03 1200C and he speed shifts often. Hard to say some times.

 

For some reason, Spring Plate issues mainly affect the rubbermount Sporties (2004 and up).

How long they last in the rubbermounts depends a lot on the type of riding one does. If your riding is mostly city (lots of clutch usage per mile) it will likely fail earlier (20K-25K miles) than someone that does a lot of highway miles, where you have little clutch usage per mile ridden (50,000+ miles).

 

hello there , I went with enery one clutches after my sporty suffered the dreaded brass rivet syndrome several years ago and couldnt be happier, bikes been fine ever since the changeover , ive gotten slightly better mpg too boot.

 

Thanks to everyone who responded, especially wachuko for those awesome directions. At this point, I'm going back and forth between the Energy 1 and the Barnett clutch pack. So far, most people go Energy 1, so I'll probably follow the herd on this since I have so little -- actually, none other than YouTube -- replacing clutches.

I used to commute to the city, but most of the commute was highway. Rush hour could pose a lot of stop-and-go, but the morning stretch was usually downhill, so I could coast.

Now, my commute is suburban. So, not as much stop-and-go, but it's still a far cry from highway riding.

So, yeah, I might not be the toughest rider on a clutch, but I'm definitely putting a lot of wear on it.

How many miles have you put on it since? Is there a difference in the way the bike rides?

Thanks for the kind offer, but I think I'll take a pass on that.

 

So what will the clutch pack do when it does go, or should I let it get to that point. I plan on changing both holes to Mobil 1 V Twin 20W50 this weekend from this Royal Purple I've been using. Once in a while on start up I get a puff of blue smoke out of both pipes. Sorry Roni, don't mean to high jack your thread.