Bike turned itself off and will not turn back on.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 14
From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
When you replace the stator buy the upgrade kit and that will give you 32 amp capacity. The kit includes a 32 amp regulator, a 32 amp stator and the matching rotor.
I upgraded using Cycle Electric components. My first replacement HD Stator fried in 5k miles. Cycle Electric uses a sturdier coil winding in the stator that is able to withstand higher temps and provide higher output at lower revs. Their regulator is sturdier and controls voltage with an improved design.
I upgraded using Cycle Electric components. My first replacement HD Stator fried in 5k miles. Cycle Electric uses a sturdier coil winding in the stator that is able to withstand higher temps and provide higher output at lower revs. Their regulator is sturdier and controls voltage with an improved design.
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Novice
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: brazoria county texas
I had already replaced the stator, accel 23 amp. I had originally used a cycle electric regulator but failed to replace the bad battery, so it killed the regulator. Then, I replaced the battery and the regulator, but with the stock replacement that is made for the 18 amp and now we find it is not catching all the power, overcharging the battery
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 14
From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
18 amp regulator with a stator rated 23 amps (23 really?) seems mismatched. Most likely passing unregulated AC to the battery, which is of course DC.
There are many advantages to using a higher rated system but it must include the rotor too.
Best of luck straightening it all out.
There are many advantages to using a higher rated system but it must include the rotor too.
Best of luck straightening it all out.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
Likes: 306
From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
I had already replaced the stator, accel 23 amp. I had originally used a cycle electric regulator but failed to replace the bad battery, so it killed the regulator. Then, I replaced the battery and the regulator, but with the stock replacement that is made for the 18 amp and now we find it is not catching all the power, overcharging the battery
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Novice
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: brazoria county texas
94 1200 sportster. And yes, it was a mismatch. When you are broke down in the middle of nowhere north Dakota and working 7-12s you get what they got in stock so you can get back on the road. When the "correct" one burned out, the factory replacement at 18 amp was all that little town had in stock. So, I ran with it and since then it has killed two batteries and countless turn signal lights from over-voltage. Got the good **** on the way though now, New battery and correct regulator at the same time. Really, that has been my problem. At one point, I have had the correct part in each position but never at the same time lol
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,420
Likes: 691
From: Columbus Ohio
My 95 sportster would die randomly. The key was also loose in the ignition. It was the ignition switch. This is quite common on older sportsters. If the battery and connections are fine, take a look at the ignition switch.
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