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When I first picked up my 48 a year and a half ago, not soon after I was having issues starting the bike. Looked at the battery and whoever put it together didn't even thread the positive cable end through the bolt, just used the bolt to "clamp" the side of the end to the battery terminal. I did it right and obviously it starts fine now. Then this weekend, I put passenger pegs on which requires removal of the master cylinder and entire exhaust system. When taking them off, the cylinder head flange nuts were only hand tight, so during reassembly I put the back on using the tightr end of the torque range. Bike seems to idle and ride smoother. My question to you guys, is there anything else I should keep an eye out for? Any other issues you've come across.
Same thing here. Picked up my iron last year and on the way home lost a exhaust support bolt and a screw from the left hand controls. I went over the whole bike and found many bolts and screws where not tight enough to. I'm a small engine mechanic so I didn't make a big deal out out of and just got replacement bolt for the exhaust and controls. Gave me a chance to know the bike a little bit better.
I do not know what parts the dealer assembles upon receipt from the factory.
Maybe someone else has a specific list.
Best option...service manual and do the critical fasteners check.
Blue Loctite and a torque wrench are "your friends" in this preventative maintenance.
Best option...service manual and do the critical fasteners check.
Blue Loctite and a torque wrench are "your friends" in this preventative maintenance.
Have fun.
I loctite everything, even stuff the service manual doesnt say to.
When I first picked up my 48 a year and a half ago, not soon after I was having issues starting the bike. Looked at the battery and whoever put it together didn't even thread the positive cable end through the bolt, just used the bolt to "clamp" the side of the end to the battery terminal. I did it right and obviously it starts fine now. Then this weekend, I put passenger pegs on which requires removal of the master cylinder and entire exhaust system. When taking them off, the cylinder head flange nuts were only hand tight, so during reassembly I put the back on using the tightr end of the torque range. Bike seems to idle and ride smoother. My question to you guys, is there anything else I should keep an eye out for? Any other issues you've come across.
Cant blame the dealer there. The flange nuts work their way loose due vibrations. Its some to check during pre ride inspections every now and then. I've lost a few. I've had to ride a few miles with bubble sound effects because one came ofand i didn't notice, so the engine shook the other bolt loose and the exhaust popped off. I noticed that when this is happening is, your bike suddenly sounds meaner than normal and you idle gets a little silly. Few miles later... bubbles. Booop booop booop.
Tighten the bolts to spec every now and then. Blue loctite does not work here. The studs get too hot. The blue loctite will liquify and aid in the bolts coming of faster. You could try red loctite.... but...
When I was a dealer delivering a boat, I used to tell my customers that we had done our best, but the boat was still a collection of 30,000 parts flying in close formation. If there was a problem, we'd stand behind it.
This week I will be picking up my '16 XL1200C and taking it straight from the dealer to my lift, where I will go over it with a fine tooth comb, including testing every wheel spoke with a torque wrench This is not to imply that the MoCo or the dealer is not doing a good job. It's just an acknowledgement that $hit happens and I'd rather catch it before it causes a problem if I can.
If everything from the manufacturer and the dealer were perfect, we wouldn't need warranties.
Cant blame the dealer there. The flange nuts work their way loose due vibrations. Its some to check during pre ride inspections every now and then. I've lost a few. I've had to ride a few miles with bubble sound effects because one came ofand i didn't notice, so the engine shook the other bolt loose and the exhaust popped off. I noticed that when this is happening is, your bike suddenly sounds meaner than normal and you idle gets a little silly. Few miles later... bubbles. Booop booop booop.
Tighten the bolts to spec every now and then. Blue loctite does not work here. The studs get too hot. The blue loctite will liquify and aid in the bolts coming of faster. You could try red loctite.... but...
Red Locktite will not work, either. One is supposed to heat up nuts/bolts installed with Red Locktite to "unlock" it.
Cant blame the dealer there. The flange nuts work their way loose due vibrations. Its some to check during pre ride inspections every now and then. I've lost a few. I've had to ride a few miles with bubble sound effects because one came ofand i didn't notice, so the engine shook the other bolt loose and the exhaust popped off. I noticed that when this is happening is, your bike suddenly sounds meaner than normal and you idle gets a little silly. Few miles later... bubbles. Booop booop booop.
Tighten the bolts to spec every now and then. Blue loctite does not work here. The studs get too hot. The blue loctite will liquify and aid in the bolts coming of faster. You could try red loctite.... but...
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