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I'm trying to chase down a slight "thunk"/forward-backward movement in my bars when I hit speed bumps etc. It's slight, but it's bugging me and I'm somewhat concerned about it as a safety issue.
*I can re-create the feeling (sometimes - which is odd in itself) by holding the front break, butt in seat and rocking forward/backward.
It started after my 4 over fork tube install, so I presume I mucked something up during. In fact, I know I did... when strapping bike down while on jack I used the bars. Lesson learned.
So far I've replaced the screws holding the handlebar clamp. That didn't do it. I have new pinch bolts I'll try next.
Upon researching I thought maybe the riser bushings, but I've also read that the "Custom" bikes don't have bushings?
Took a crack at this over the weekend. Followed the manual and loosened the pinch bolt, tighted the neck bolt and still feel a forward/backward "play". Thinking I need to replace the bearings? Seems intimidating... Anyone have experience/tips for easiest method?
Took a crack at this over the weekend. Followed the manual and loosened the pinch bolt, tighted the neck bolt and still feel a forward/backward "play". Thinking I need to replace the bearings? Seems intimidating... Anyone have experience/tips for easiest method?
i dont think the bearings would do that. Have you tried to re-torque your riser bolts?
the head bearing and races are replacedat thesame time. Im not sureif you followed the roadster wheels thread but, that was a bit of a head scratcher without the hd race puller.
That was the first thing I tried. I was so convinced that was it I likely over tightened them! That led me to think maybe there's bushings in there.
It started after my fork extension. Definitely feels like it's up top. I suppose it could be fork oil level? I went with 5.25" from top just like stock. Just added 4" to spacer length to keep the old sag ratio too.
the head bearing and races are replacedat thesame time. Im not sureif you followed the roadster wheels thread but, that was a bit of a head scratcher without the hd race puller.
Update: I pulled and re-installed the rider bolts, "clunk" still there. Having someone else listen while I duplicate (hold front brake shift weight forward/backward) would be helpful.
I also played with the rotor like a steering wheel as I've read some floating rotors can clunk and nothing.
Next thing I'll try is jacking it, removing from wheel and checking torque on the bottom allens inside the forks (dampeners?). Those are the only two screws I didn't do myself. A buddy whose a HD mechanic did those. When I asked if he checked the torque he said "no, we don't at the shop either". Perhaps there's some play down there?
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