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I have a 1986 Sportster 883. Precious owner put a new drive chain on however the chain is too long and adjustment on the axle is all the way back. Im going to take a couple links out and have studied the manual but it is a little vague. My main questions are where do I set the axle in the slot- in the middle or all the way forward? Also how do I ensure to keep the adjustment screws even so nothing is out of whack, just back them off even amounts then move axle accordingly? Thanks and any help is appreciated
This Motion Pro alignment tool clamps to the sprocket and works very well on most bikes, have one myself.
While you have the chain off measure 24 links to check for wear, if new this will be exactly 15" pin center to pin center....if elongation makes this go to 15 1/4" the chain has elongated 1.5% and should be replaced, FWIW I replace bicycle and MC chain when they reach 1% elongation and get good sprocket life, that would about be 15 3/16" in this case (or 12 1/8" on 24 links of a bicycle)
When I changed my chain, I moved the adjusters just forward of mid position. I figure that gave me a bit more room for future adjustment. I marked the adjuster nuts so I can match rotation on the threads on both sides. Just a yellow mark on each adjuster worked for me. Of course, we assume your adjusters (and mine) are aligned to begin with.
I bought an RK X ring chain and it is awesome!!! Have only needed to adjust chain once, probably 3000 miles on this chain, very smooth and solid chain. I think I got a 106 link chain, but don't quote me on that. Bel Ray Super Clean Chain Lube is awesome too!
A lot of shops are too lazy to move the adjusters and just put on a longer chain to begin with, which probably happened to you.
You can also pull on the chain at the 9 o'clock position (as you face it) on the rear sprocket and if it moves out a bit, replace chain.
John
Last edited by John Harper; May 1, 2018 at 07:49 PM.
You want 2% of the center to center distance between the sprockets when they're aligned with the swingarm pivot (tightest point) as the minimum tension. This is approx. 1/4"-1/2" slack at that point. It depends on your exact setup.
If it's a new chain, I try to get it forward of the midpoint of the adjustment slot when taking links out. If it's an older chain, you have no way of knowing where it started out, so shortening it may not be a good idea - it could already be worn out.
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Drive chain adjustment
