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That is not too hot for a Sportster engine. The Engine Temp on Sportsters is measured on the rear cylinder head.
In my 2013 XL1200C the Stock tune did not enable Adaptive Fuel Control until 356 F, it stayed active until 424 F.
The EITMS (extended Idle Temperature Management System) does not kick in until 464 F.
The Spark Adjust by Head Temp does not start pulling ignition timing until 394 F (that is under high loads only)
it doesn't pull spark in the idle area until 509 F.
Thanks for the info about running richer not cooling the engine down much if at all.
What happens if you go leaner, say to 14.6 to 1?
A 2016 should stay in closed loop between about 14.2 and 15 to 1 Air Fuel Ratios.
Last edited by shanneba; Aug 11, 2018 at 06:48 AM.
I've checked mine and when running for 15-20 miles at 70 mph my FP3 shows head temp of around 380*-385*. I've been told, and as Scuba said that's pretty normal.
I was more concerned with my oil as I would see close to 250* when running 70 mph for extended periods of time. A few weeks ago I installed a Jaggs oil cooler, and it took care of that issue, I'm lucky to see 220* after installing it no matter what the air temps are or how fast I'm riding.
thank you everyone for the responses. very helpful info.
will not worry too much about the 380 temp and re flash my map back to the factory vance and hines settings.
hopefully my oils will not burn up.
going to switch out the ATF inside my primary for some 75w90- gear oil as it may be able to withstand higher tems than the ATF thats in there.
thanks again for all the input
I didn't mention that I'm running the V&H MAP for their twin slash mufflers ( it has Rush 1.75" slipons on it) and a high flow air cleaner. Bike runs great!
I'm running Redline 75w90 in my primary, and Redline 20w50 in the engine. I made the decision to go all synthetic in my bike.
thank you everyone for the responses. very helpful info.
will not worry too much about the 380 temp and re flash my map back to the factory vance and hines settings.
hopefully my oils will not burn up.
going to switch out the ATF inside my primary for some 75w90- gear oil as it may be able to withstand higher tems than the ATF thats in there.
thanks again for all the input
The reason the temperature reads so high is because of the location of the sensor, right above the combustion chamber of the rear cylinder. Monitor the oil temperature directly with one of those thermometer oil caps. If your oil exceeds 300, it is trashed and you should change the oil. This will help you gauge the temperature of the engine much more accurately. I have seen a temperature as high as 400 but my oil temperature remains at 220.
my bike runs ~360-380 and around 400 if its at 75mph on the highway, but the oils usually around 210. I think your fine, but dont leave the AFR at 11.8, thats beyond even my 7000rpm @ 100MAP level. WAYWAYWAY rich. just throwing carbon into your cylinders. Ive been told the best torque AFR is around 13.1, and thats plenty rich to keep the temps down.
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