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Clutch adjustment

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Old Dec 12, 2018 | 09:16 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by handirifle
Like I said Sat morning. Only reason I was holding off was because of wondering about the seal. But sounds like no one replaces it unless it does leak.

I was curious as to two different adjustment points, never had any vehicle that had more than one. Not a big deal so long as I know why.
Not any different to any other manual transmission vehicle. Once upon a time cars etc had a cable or lever operated clutch, which would need adjustment at two points, just like our Harleys. Vehicles with hydraulic clutches still need servicing at two points for much the same reasons. It's the way of the World!
 
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Old Dec 12, 2018 | 09:27 AM
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I have only ever had cars with hydraulic clutch actuation and in all that time dating back to the early '70s I have never adjusted a clutch. I have only ever needed a clutch changing once at 86000 miles on a car I bought second hand but hey I digress as to what a Harley needs.
 

Last edited by Andy from Sandy; Dec 12, 2018 at 09:29 AM.
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Old Dec 12, 2018 | 10:18 AM
  #13  
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2 points to adjust, 1 is the ramp assembly under the cover.........then adjust the cable, simple job
 
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Old Dec 12, 2018 | 10:38 AM
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If you take the cable loose at the clutch end, that's a good time to replace that o-ring in the primary cover. I had one leak (before I ever took the cover off, too) and that's a fair amount of work for just a little o-ring. Was around 30,000 miles on my 1200, so while in there I got rid of that riveted spring plate in the clutch, too.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2018 | 10:57 AM
  #15  
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Worked at a transmission shop for almost 3 years. Never saw a car with two adjustent points. It was always by the bellhousing
 
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Old Dec 12, 2018 | 11:10 AM
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Be extra careful with the threads on the cover, seems like lot's of people on here have stripped them.
If this is your first Harley after riding metrics you will have to get used to more clunking for sure even with a properly adjusted clutch, Harleys do require a strong shift movement of your foot and always bang more than a metric going into first. Your bike might be acting normally and your just not used to it.
The clutch may not need to be adjusted at all, if you can roll it with no resistance with the motor shut off and it in gear and the clutch pulled all the way in your clutch is not draging and doesn't need to be adjusted.
Also you could try holding the clutch in with it running in neutral longer to give the transmission time to slow down before shifting into first, this helps a lot with that first clunk of the day when it's cold.
 

Last edited by HOTLAP; Dec 12, 2018 at 11:12 AM.
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Old Dec 12, 2018 | 11:37 AM
  #17  
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Cover screws do up to 10Nm.

I have switched to Nm so I don't mix up in-lbs and ft-lbs.

Before selecting 1st gear for the first time after starting I operate the clutch a few times while allowing 30 seconds or so to warm up. It seems to work for me, always selecting the gear as fast as possible. i.e. a swift kick down of my foot.
 

Last edited by Andy from Sandy; Dec 12, 2018 at 11:41 AM.
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Old Dec 12, 2018 | 11:56 AM
  #18  
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It is new to me in that respect but have ridden it a couple months and it never did it before. Might be colder but I will check clutch anyway. It wasnt a clunk it was actually grinding with the same amount of foot pressure. Might be colder tranny lube. It did work normally when warm. Never thiught a out the temp to be honest.

Maybe like you said let er warm up a bit
 
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Old Dec 12, 2018 | 12:02 PM
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torx are also T27, make sure you dont use the T25, its fits but will strip em
 
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Old Dec 12, 2018 | 12:58 PM
  #20  
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Delboy sis mention that in his video but I might have forgotten it. Thanks for the reminder.
 
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