When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
OK so I have to admit much about this bike seems different to me from what I have known of bikes in the past. Last couple rides out when putting it into first gear, it grinds then drops in. First time it did it, it took several tries before it went, then all was ok afterwards. Second time was lessened but still there. Reading the manual I assumed it would all be in the adjustment on the cable by the downtube. According to the manual I have to pull left side foot rest (mids) and then clutch cover plate and adjust in there. For the record there is not freeplay in clutch lever. I also see the cable adjuster is needed to gain access to clutch plate adjuster.
Does all this sound normal? Also says to remove and replace a part (dont recall name) that sounds like an o ring seal for this cover. Will this be a problem if I reuse this? I only ask this because nearest HD dealer is an hour away and will be mail order otherwise. Would like to do this as soon as possible and then get a new seal and replace it when convienent.
Would that work ok? The double points of adjustment seem odd to me.
Last edited by handirifle; Dec 11, 2018 at 02:57 PM.
See clutch adjustment sporty youtube. None easier. Keep the gasket in the same position when you take it off. When you clutch, like an outboard motor, you need to pop it. I assume you are doing that. Quick stab far as lever goes but, of course, letting the end of the travel ease up but not slow down. Be sure to add your bike similar to mine in your signature.
Lol I just watched him and wondered if anyone had leaks. Good to know.
That IS how I shift but has taken a bit more effort and the grinding is disconcerting so I wanted to insure clutch os properly adjusted. Thanks for the feedback. Youtube is amazing and gratefull folks take the time to post on there like they do.
Your clutch lever should have a small amount of freeplay in it. You get that freeplay by adjusting the cable. I always try to keep the freeplay at or just a hair under 1/8 in when the bike and clutch is warmed up. I always set the freeplay, then ride to warm it all up and recheck and adjust if needed.
If your bike is cold, the first downshift into first might be a little funky. The plates stick together and need to free up a bit. You probably should check/adjust inside the derby cover.
Do the adjustment inside the cover, then set the lever play. Back off the cable adjuster (screw it in, shorten) then do the derby cover adjustment, then set the lever play.
Yup plan on doing that Sat morning. Been stuck on jury duty these last 2 weeks and can't get crap done. SHOULD be done Friday, am soooo sick of this. This will be the 6th trial I have sat on over the years. Sorry, I've done my part.
Anyway that is why most of this stuff gets back burnered. I did like Delboys videos, short, precise and to the point, Just like I like them.
Checking the free play at the lever end by pulling on the outer should be 1/16" to 1/8". I do it by pulling on the outer and pull and release the lever.
While you are at it you might want to check the primary chain. That should have 3/8" slack where the tightest point is. That is about the thickness of the chain so it is easy to check.
Last edited by Andy from Sandy; Dec 12, 2018 at 07:01 AM.
We also have a Sticky in the Tech Primary section on adjusting your clutch. There are two points of adjustment for very simple reasons: the clutch plates themselves wear a little over time, so get thinner, which reduces the lift achieved when pulling in the clutch lever; the clutch cable can stretch a little over time, it can also wear through the internal lining of the outer sheath, which also reduces lift at the lever. It sounds as if you need to go back to basics, adjust at the clutch first, then adjust the cable, as per all the many sources of info on doing the job.
Like I said Sat morning. Only reason I was holding off was because of wondering about the seal. But sounds like no one replaces it unless it does leak.
I was curious as to two different adjustment points, never had any vehicle that had more than one. Not a big deal so long as I know why.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.