Clutch slip .
Clutch slip .
Oh why did I have to interfere ? When I got my 2004 Roadster a few weeks ago there was no hint of clutch slip even when accelerating hard at high speed. As I do with any second hand bike I went and changed the oil (s) . I put Drag Specialities Sportster Gear and Chain case Oil in the primary and now when I accelerate very hard when I'm already at speed I get clutch slip . It's was only for a few seconds because as soon as it happened I backed off the throttle but it was definitely there. When I changed the primary oil , the stuff that came out was somewhat thinner ( When cold )than what I put back in . It was also fairly clean and was reddish in colour. The thing is, I didn't throw it away so my question is can anyone see any reason why I shouldn't try draining the new oil and putting this stuff back in ? There will obviously be some mixing of old and new oil but it's not like it's going to turn to jelly ( jello ) is it ? Gotta be worth a try .
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 61
Likes: 8
From: SC
Maybe the oil had nothing to do with the slipping and needs clutch adjustment? Or are you thinking the previous oil was hiding/preventing the clutch slip temporarily? Sounds like ATF fluid was in there if reddish in color. Is that the proper oil? Does it smell like ATF? Just my thoughts, could be wrong.
Maybe the oil had nothing to do with the slipping and needs clutch adjustment? Or are you thinking the previous oil was hiding/preventing the clutch slip temporarily? Sounds like ATF fluid was in there if reddish in color. Is that the proper oil? Does it smell like ATF? Just my thoughts, could be wrong.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 122
Likes: 34
From: West Sussex, England
Here are my suggestions as I have just done a primary/clutch service:
1. Drain this new oil (hot) out - its no good. Drain on the jiffy stand and also then stand the bike up vertical for 5 mins. Its all in the service manual - this way all the oil drains.
2. Get the Harley Primary/Transmission oil from your Harley store - its not outrageously expensive at all, buy 1qrt, which in the UK means the bottle will be 1 litre. (1 litre=946 ml).
3. Now at this point I then took
my derby (clutch) cover off and followed the precise instructions to adjust the clutch at the clutch basket. One flat blade screw driver is all you need. If you want me to describe this procedure pm me - its all over the internet though.
4. Check sump o-ring and clean sump bolt - screw back in & also for me I then put the derby cover back on with a new o-ring, taking care to ensure the clutch-spring in the centre seats correctly in the housing.
5. Before this I had looked at my clutch lever position at the bar and was happy before and after my work.
Go ride. Should be no slip. Unless, your plates are wearing out far too early for some reason.
My thoughts are why do people mess about putting different oils in their primary , other than Harleys own recommended stuff? Ive heard people complain of the price, well here in the UK I paid the equivalent of $15., thats pretty cheap! Ive always been super careful with my other bikes as clutches are very sensitive to oil additives and in my view you just dont know what might be going in with modern oils.
1. Drain this new oil (hot) out - its no good. Drain on the jiffy stand and also then stand the bike up vertical for 5 mins. Its all in the service manual - this way all the oil drains.
2. Get the Harley Primary/Transmission oil from your Harley store - its not outrageously expensive at all, buy 1qrt, which in the UK means the bottle will be 1 litre. (1 litre=946 ml).
3. Now at this point I then took
my derby (clutch) cover off and followed the precise instructions to adjust the clutch at the clutch basket. One flat blade screw driver is all you need. If you want me to describe this procedure pm me - its all over the internet though.
4. Check sump o-ring and clean sump bolt - screw back in & also for me I then put the derby cover back on with a new o-ring, taking care to ensure the clutch-spring in the centre seats correctly in the housing.
5. Before this I had looked at my clutch lever position at the bar and was happy before and after my work.
Go ride. Should be no slip. Unless, your plates are wearing out far too early for some reason.
My thoughts are why do people mess about putting different oils in their primary , other than Harleys own recommended stuff? Ive heard people complain of the price, well here in the UK I paid the equivalent of $15., thats pretty cheap! Ive always been super careful with my other bikes as clutches are very sensitive to oil additives and in my view you just dont know what might be going in with modern oils.
Last edited by steveket; May 26, 2019 at 03:39 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 12,258
Likes: 4,947
From: England
1 litre=946 ml
1 US quart = 2 US pints = 946ml
A bottle in the UK will be 1 litre = 1.057 US quarts so you will not use all of it.
If in America and it is 1 US quart you will put the whole bottle in.
Last edited by Andy from Sandy; May 26, 2019 at 04:53 AM.
Here are my suggestions as I have just done a primary/clutch service:
1. Drain this new oil (hot) out - its no good. Drain on the jiffy stand and also then stand the bike up vertical for 5 mins. Its all in the service manual - this way all the oil drains.
2. Get the Harley Primary/Transmission oil from your Harley store - its not outrageously expensive at all, buy 1qrt, which in the UK means the bottle will be 1 litre. (1 litre=946 ml).
3. Now at this point I then took
my derby (clutch) cover off and followed the precise instructions to adjust the clutch at the clutch basket. One flat blade screw driver is all you need. If you want me to describe this procedure pm me - its all over the internet though.
4. Check sump o-ring and clean sump bolt - screw back in & also for me I then put the derby cover back on with a new o-ring, taking care to ensure the clutch-spring in the centre seats correctly in the housing.
5. Before this I had looked at my clutch lever position at the bar and was happy before and after my work.
Go ride. Should be no slip. Unless, your plates are wearing out far too early for some reason.
My thoughts are why do people mess about putting different oils in their primary , other than Harleys own recommended stuff? Ive heard people complain of the price, well here in the UK I paid the equivalent of $15., thats pretty cheap! Ive always been super careful with my other bikes as clutches are very sensitive to oil additives and in my view you just dont know what might be going in with modern oils.
1. Drain this new oil (hot) out - its no good. Drain on the jiffy stand and also then stand the bike up vertical for 5 mins. Its all in the service manual - this way all the oil drains.
2. Get the Harley Primary/Transmission oil from your Harley store - its not outrageously expensive at all, buy 1qrt, which in the UK means the bottle will be 1 litre. (1 litre=946 ml).
3. Now at this point I then took
my derby (clutch) cover off and followed the precise instructions to adjust the clutch at the clutch basket. One flat blade screw driver is all you need. If you want me to describe this procedure pm me - its all over the internet though.
4. Check sump o-ring and clean sump bolt - screw back in & also for me I then put the derby cover back on with a new o-ring, taking care to ensure the clutch-spring in the centre seats correctly in the housing.
5. Before this I had looked at my clutch lever position at the bar and was happy before and after my work.
Go ride. Should be no slip. Unless, your plates are wearing out far too early for some reason.
My thoughts are why do people mess about putting different oils in their primary , other than Harleys own recommended stuff? Ive heard people complain of the price, well here in the UK I paid the equivalent of $15., thats pretty cheap! Ive always been super careful with my other bikes as clutches are very sensitive to oil additives and in my view you just dont know what might be going in with modern oils.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 122
Likes: 34
From: West Sussex, England
Hi mate, that oil sounds like it should be alright then, given that description! If your problem persists Id go back in and go through the clutch adjustment procedure/s. It is easy. I have heard about the stronger spring - an option of course. Good luck.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,625
Likes: 349
From: The Biggest Little City, Reno, NV
If you changed the oil, then its fine. I would adjust the the clutch, if that doesnt help then its pribably time for a new clutch.
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Oh great ! I've just ridden 150 miles on my other bike to find a UK Harley dealership that opens on a Sunday and bought a bottle of genuine Harley chain case oil .
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 61
Likes: 8
From: SC
Good luck. I'm getting ready to swap my clutch. Bike has 27,000 and had some brass filings in it when I changed oil so gonna pull apart. Reading about grenade plate has me worried so gonna do my first ever bike clutch.