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Hi Everyone, I have a 2014 883 and can use help to circumvent the kill switch. I look at the wiring diagram and I am lost. I thought it would be as easy as putting two wires together, but it is not because those two wires do not exist, only a WHITE/ GRAY one going into the hand control. I put a direct start button on, all other wiring is removed. This is all that is left.
Can anyone please tell me how to wire this up? PLEASE.
You are not going to circumvent the kill switch...
Put it back together.
What exactly are you attempting to do?
Thank you for getting back to me, I was working all night so please excuse the delayed post.
I am trying to get rid of the right hand control module. So no push button start, no turn signal etc. There is a direct start button on the starter. So I am trying to figure out how to wire it up so it circumvents the kill switch and turns on the fuel pump.
Can bus wiring.
It does more than signal and must be twisted correctly or you start getting ecm problems.
I kind of understand what you are saying but can you please explain it like I was a 5 year old. I am sort of new to the wiring of modern motorcycles. Do you have any suggestions?
2014 they introduced canbus wiring, much smaller plugs and harder to work on. Pretty common in cars. know as I have a 2014 bike.
There should be schematics of a 2014 bike out there.
Might be easier to open your switch housing and see what wires go to what.
Personally I'd recommend buying a harness extension kit (hd make one). Wire you start button on that.
If you mess up you only lost the extender piece and have not messes up the bikes harness or the switch housing controls and can go back stock design if needed.
Just remember to keep twisted pair twisted and same length.
I kind of understand what you are saying but can you please explain it like I was a 5 year old. I am sort of new to the wiring of modern motorcycles. Do you have any suggestions?
Thank you for helping
The twisted wires are a pain in the ***, signal crosses between them which allows multiple signals to be sent down just two wires.
Keep wires at a similar length and keep them twisted 1 per cm (similar to there twisted rate when you look at them now) to stop error codes from ecm.
The switches, as I understand it, are no longer switches in the sense that they have wires that run to whatever they are switching. As an example, in the old days the starter switch would have a couple of wires that run to the starter relay to make things happen. Now the switch housing has a board with some logic on it that converts the switch signal to data (along with all the other controls on the housing) and this data travels the bus (canbus) as signals to be decoded and put into action. This means only a few wires are required to handle all the different controls available on the housing.
I don't know if anyone sells any sort of housing replacement that works with the new canbus systems.
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