Brake light always ON - sportster 1200C
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From: Eastern Pa
Brake light always ON - sportster 1200C
Failed inspection yesterday because the brake light appears to be always on.
The mechanic wanted to put on a new front lever, but I'm not so sure.
Got home and on took off the front lever.
The light remains on.
What gives?!!
Theories - - and questions.
Maybe the plunger switch next to the front lever is not working.
It does move in and out a bit when I press on it.
How do I check continuity on the front switch?
Maybe the rear brake pedal system is where the problem is.
I see the switch behind the rear master cylinder. Guessing that's the place to check continuity.
Other ideas?? Thanks.
Great weather. Can't ride.
The mechanic wanted to put on a new front lever, but I'm not so sure.
Got home and on took off the front lever.
The light remains on.
What gives?!!
Theories - - and questions.
Maybe the plunger switch next to the front lever is not working.
It does move in and out a bit when I press on it.
How do I check continuity on the front switch?
Maybe the rear brake pedal system is where the problem is.
I see the switch behind the rear master cylinder. Guessing that's the place to check continuity.
Other ideas?? Thanks.
Great weather. Can't ride.
Last edited by Imperial 883; Oct 1, 2021 at 10:28 AM. Reason: format
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 12,218
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From: England
How do you know the fault is with the front switch?
The switches are in parallel. If the front is permanently made it won't make any difference what you do with the rear and vice versa.
You can pull the wires to the rear switch to see if it is stuck on.
The wires for the front go to a connector under the tank.
What year is the bike?
The switches are in parallel. If the front is permanently made it won't make any difference what you do with the rear and vice versa.
You can pull the wires to the rear switch to see if it is stuck on.
The wires for the front go to a connector under the tank.
What year is the bike?
Last edited by Andy from Sandy; Oct 1, 2021 at 10:55 AM.
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From: Eastern Pa
Thanks for the feedback!
It's a 2012 1200C.
Dont know the location of the fault.
Figured the front and back were the two most likely culprits.
Looks like it's time to peek under the tank.
It's a 2012 1200C.
Dont know the location of the fault.
Figured the front and back were the two most likely culprits.
Looks like it's time to peek under the tank.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 12,218
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From: England
Wiring diagram here - en_US (harley-davidson.com)
Page 4 has the circuit for the brake light switches.
Page 4 has the circuit for the brake light switches.
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From: South Carolina
No reason to look under the tank...
You first need to check the switches to see which one is causing the problem.
Remove the wires from the rear switch, does the brake light stay on?
If so, the front switch needs to be looked at.
It could be sticking due to crud, or it could have been damaged when it was last assembled.
Has any work been done to the left side control and switches?
You first need to check the switches to see which one is causing the problem.
Remove the wires from the rear switch, does the brake light stay on?
If so, the front switch needs to be looked at.
It could be sticking due to crud, or it could have been damaged when it was last assembled.
Has any work been done to the left side control and switches?
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Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 58
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From: Eastern Pa
I removed a wire from the rear brake switch today and
the brake light stayed on.
Then, I hooked up a continuity tester to the rear switch,
and the tester only lit up when the rear brake pedal was
pressed.
Pretty confident it is not the rear brake switch causing the issue.
That brings the issue back to the front brake.
The local bike shop thinks that the lever is "aftermarket"
and not properly hitting the switch plunger.
Does the plunger need to be released to complete the circuit
or does the plunger need to be pressed in (as is normal) to
complete the circuit?
Thanks for any input.
the brake light stayed on.
Then, I hooked up a continuity tester to the rear switch,
and the tester only lit up when the rear brake pedal was
pressed.
Pretty confident it is not the rear brake switch causing the issue.
That brings the issue back to the front brake.
The local bike shop thinks that the lever is "aftermarket"
and not properly hitting the switch plunger.
Does the plunger need to be released to complete the circuit
or does the plunger need to be pressed in (as is normal) to
complete the circuit?
Thanks for any input.
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Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 12,218
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From: England
Very good question and I cannot remember.
I had to change the one on the bike I have here as the previous owner broke it.
First off is the tip of the switch there, that is the bit that gets broken off?
All I can suggest is you press the switch and see if it operates.
I had to change the one on the bike I have here as the previous owner broke it.
First off is the tip of the switch there, that is the bit that gets broken off?
All I can suggest is you press the switch and see if it operates.
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From: Honah Lee
In is off.
So if tip gets broke, light stays on. Sometimes, switch can get dislodged but usually only when someone is sloppy getting it all back together.
The older version soldiered in. Real pain. Quite often, they burn up and stay on, so it may work when you take it out and if you reuse it, it fails again. Found that out the hard way.
I put a led bulb in brake light. Switch last a lot longer. Not the signal lights. And the led was just the bulb. Not Harley's $200 one.
My old Harley has had two front and three rear switches. Last rear is a lifetime AutoZone. Front from ebay.
I usually always say stick to OEM. But for some reason brake lights suck for me. The front on eBay was $8.00, rated 10 amp but I did need to solider and shrinkwrap and get it all in the shell.
The rear hydraulic was the third, so a lifetime warranty on one that went on a old Chevy with six 1147 brake lights sounded good.
So if tip gets broke, light stays on. Sometimes, switch can get dislodged but usually only when someone is sloppy getting it all back together.
The older version soldiered in. Real pain. Quite often, they burn up and stay on, so it may work when you take it out and if you reuse it, it fails again. Found that out the hard way.
I put a led bulb in brake light. Switch last a lot longer. Not the signal lights. And the led was just the bulb. Not Harley's $200 one.
My old Harley has had two front and three rear switches. Last rear is a lifetime AutoZone. Front from ebay.
I usually always say stick to OEM. But for some reason brake lights suck for me. The front on eBay was $8.00, rated 10 amp but I did need to solider and shrinkwrap and get it all in the shell.
The rear hydraulic was the third, so a lifetime warranty on one that went on a old Chevy with six 1147 brake lights sounded good.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Oct 3, 2021 at 08:56 AM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 12,218
Likes: 4,929
From: England
If you do replace the front switch you have a couple of options.
The correct switch has one wire that goes all the way to the connector under the tank and the other is splice joint around 12" from the switch. You would need to purchase a pin and some way to crimp it on.
The other option is to get a switch with short wires and splice in where you can.
If you go with option 2 it is worth making the splice where HD did and the second splice staggered to keep the loom as thin as possible.
HD uses a solderless system.
With the lever mount off the bike you need to operate it and wedge something in the opening to hold it operated before assembling back on the bike.
Long wire - Harley Davidson Front Brake light switch 96-13 models 71621-08 | eBay - best
Short wire - FRONT BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH FOR HARLEY DAVIDSON 96-UP OEM 71590-96 ť (barnabywilde.co.uk) - not so good IMHO
The correct switch has one wire that goes all the way to the connector under the tank and the other is splice joint around 12" from the switch. You would need to purchase a pin and some way to crimp it on.
The other option is to get a switch with short wires and splice in where you can.
If you go with option 2 it is worth making the splice where HD did and the second splice staggered to keep the loom as thin as possible.
HD uses a solderless system.
With the lever mount off the bike you need to operate it and wedge something in the opening to hold it operated before assembling back on the bike.
Long wire - Harley Davidson Front Brake light switch 96-13 models 71621-08 | eBay - best
Short wire - FRONT BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH FOR HARLEY DAVIDSON 96-UP OEM 71590-96 ť (barnabywilde.co.uk) - not so good IMHO
Last edited by Andy from Sandy; Oct 3, 2021 at 05:53 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,092
Likes: 12,638
From: South Carolina
When it comes to switches, you should always try to get an OEM part before going to aftermarket.
The brake switches are still available from the dealer.
When installing the new switch, be sure to follow the instructions in the factory service manual or you will damage the switch.
The brake switches are still available from the dealer.
When installing the new switch, be sure to follow the instructions in the factory service manual or you will damage the switch.