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This is the info on gearing. Note, this is directly from Hammer Performance website. I recommend anyone interested in upgrading their engine, spend some time there reading and you will learn a lot.
Should I change my 883's gearing when I do a conversion? What are my options?
The vast majority of conversions are done without a change to the gearing. It's completely optional.
The advantage of the shorter 883 gearing is quicker acceleration.
The advantage of the taller 1200 gearing is reduced engine rpm at highway speeds.
If you have a 1991-2003 model:
91-03 XL883 and XL1200 models share the same primary gearing: 35T front sprocket and 56T clutch basket.
However, the final drive differs. Belt drive 883 models came with a 27T front sprocket and 1200's came with a 29T front sprocket. Both models came with a 61T rear sprocket.
Changing your 883 to the 29T front final drive sprocket will result in a 7% reduction in rpm at any given speed. So for example, if you're turning 3000rpm now, at that same speed you'll be turning about 2800rpm after changing to the 29T sprocket
If you have a 2004+ model:
2004+ XL883 models have a 34T front primary sprocket and 2004+ XL1200 models have a 38T front primary sprocket. Both models have a 57T clutch basket.
XL883 models from 2004-2010 came from HD with a 28T front final drive sprocket, and 2011+ came with a 29T front final drive sprocket.
2004+ XL1200 models came from HD with a 29T front final drive sprocket.
HD also offered a 30T front final drive sprocket on certain international models.
All 2004+ models, 883 and 1200, came from HD with a 68T rear final drive sprocket.
Here are all the possible gearing combinations with factory sprockets, in order of shortest to tallest:
(57/34) x (68/28) = 4.07 overall in top gear (stock 2004-2010 XL883)
(57/34) x (68/29) = 3.93 overall in top gear (stock 2011+ XL883)
(57/34) x (68/30) = 3.80 overall in top gear (XL883 primary with HDI final)
(57/38) x (68/28) = 3.64 overall in top gear (XL1200 primary with 2004-2010 XL883 final)
(57/38) x (68/29) = 3.51 overall in top gear (stock 2004+ XL1200)
(57/38) x (68/30) = 3.40 overall in top gear (Stock 2004+ 1200 primary with HDI final)
From the shortest combination above, to the tallest, you would reduce your rpm at any given speed by about 16%, which is a LOT. For example, if you're turning 3000rpm now with the shortest combination, you'd be turning only 2500rpm at that same speed with the tallest combination
All I did was replace my crank gear and primary chain. You have to pull the primary cover no matter what on the newer bikes or you'll smoke the clutch.
Based off the seat of my pants riding my 22 I'm going to 100% agree with these dyno numbers and curve shapes. Also note how easily it pulled away from just off idle in 5th
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