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I think I found the issue. When I relocated the coil a month or so ago, I used butt connectors because I didn't bother to practice soldering. I've had a few hours of practice now, so I'm fairly proficient. Reconnected those wires securely, so I need to wrap up the bike and take it on an extended trip. Just happened to fail and the reset procedure of the BAS remedied the issue for a bit, so I figured that was a high probability. Now I'm anti-butt connector for life, lol.
Glad you got it fixed.
Been working on bikes, cars and boats since the 60's.
Back then, a radio installation was a real job under the dash. After redoing one because of crimp connectors, I solder, one layer of tape since my shrink is thin and shrink wrap. Then I pack with a dab of RTV to seal.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Aug 28, 2023 at 05:41 PM.
Bike is buttoned up and started up immediately. I'll take a 30 mile ride or so and report back with the results. Hopefully don't have to get rescued thrice in three days...
Although it's public information, there's no need to copy/paste that info on this thread. Please redact and Dank can edit how they please. Thanks.
I've used those butt connectors with solder in the middle. They work well, but are a bit hard to get the solder to melt without concentrating the heat. I used a shield of aluminum foil around the splice to keep it hot with heat gun.
Yea, I'm sure the nice ones work fine with proper application, but I'd rather just solder and heat shrink them in place. Took the bike out for 45ish minutes yesterday, full operating temp, with no failure. Definitely the result of my initial shotty wiring, lol.
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