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Please tell me someone: there is a basic kit from hammer 883-1250 (2014 sportster). Cams w-stock. Can I install cams N4 (maybe some others) without doing anything with the heads? Or stay on w-cams? If I change cams, then I will definitely do the setup on the dyno stand.
You don't have to do headwork with either of those mods. N4's are bolt-in cams. If money is the limiting factor here , I would spend it on the heads and keep the W cams vs not doing the heads and installing N4 cams. Then later I would change the cams, but that is just my personal preference. You can certainly do the 1250 kit with N4's without doing the heads.
You don't have to do headwork with either of those mods. N4's are bolt-in cams. If money is the limiting factor here , I would spend it on the heads and keep the W cams vs not doing the heads and installing N4 cams. Then later I would change the cams, but that is just my personal preference. You can certainly do the 1250 kit with N4's without doing the heads.
The mechanic advised me to replace the valve 883 in the drain heads with https://www.summitracing.com/parts/k...-883/year/2014
I don't know if this will have any effect? It will not be possible to make a full porting of heads in my country(
After looking at the link you added it looks like the mechanic wants to put in larger exhaust valves. Without any other head changes you would have to consider the cost/benefit for doing this, but it may not be a bad idea if you go the N4 route as the N4s will push power further up the rpm range. If you live somewhere where this is the only option for upgrading the heads than it may not be a bad route, or you could try and source some stock 1200 heads.
Last edited by OCSpringer; Sep 22, 2023 at 06:11 AM.
You should contact Hammer Performance by email. You cannot go wrong with their advice and experience. I have the basic 1250 kit, did not change cams or do anything to the heads. Coming up on 3 years this coming month since I converted, could not be happier with the outcome.
John's right. I think you would be pretty happy just doing the 1250 kit. But the cams would be a noticeable change as well, but it also depends on how you ride.
I'm on a rigid mount so I went from a 1200 conversion with 883 heads and D spec cams to a 1200 conversion with 1200 heads w/ headwork and N2 cams and the difference was pretty significant. I wanted the W cams but couldn't find them for my year as they are somewhat rare. Based on my experience going from D cams to N2's, and what I hear about going from W cams to N4's it would also be a pretty noticeable difference. Its not without cost to the low end grunt though and depends on your riding style. People ask why I didn't go to N4's as the N2's are basically the same cost (kind of a gentle way of calling me an idiot me thinks). For my riding style the N2's (very similar to the W's) suit me better. I did not want to move power up the rpm range too much as I don't ride in the higher range often.
Last edited by OCSpringer; Sep 22, 2023 at 08:48 AM.
You should contact Hammer Performance by email. You cannot go wrong with their advice and experience. I have the basic 1250 kit, did not change cams or do anything to the heads. Coming up on 3 years this coming month since I converted, could not be happier with the outcome.
John
I had a very bad result on the basic 1250 with only 60 horsepower. But I had a very noise-reducing baffle (custom) in bigradius when I set it up for dynostand. I was advised to put special valves without porting
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