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I did have Amsoil 20w50 full synthetic in the primary to begin with. I took it apart ( again) ,cleaned everything off ,refilled it with straight 60w, no improvement? I may try adjusting the clutch release again but without the 1/4-1/2 turn out just to see if that helps. At this point I'm kinda stumped.
Just a question: Did you put all the steels back in the clutch facing the same direction? Steels have a sharp edge and a slightly rounded edge from the stamping process.
If they are not all facing (sharp edge/rounded edge) the same direction they can catch on the friction plates. on different sides and cause the frictions not to release smoothly.
You may already know this and I'm just putting it out there.
Just a question: Did you put all the steels back in the clutch facing the same direction? Steels have a sharp edge and a slightly rounded edge from the stamping process.
If they are not all facing (sharp edge/rounded edge) the same direction they can catch on the friction plates. on different sides and cause the frictions not to release smoothly.
You may already know this and I'm just putting it out there.
Good luck.
I know now! I was using a FSM , definitely not addressed in the manual. If I do wind up taking it apart again I will certainly check. Prefer to exhaust all other possibilities before I tear it apart again.
I didn't know until coming here with my Harley that gear oil and engine oil ratings are different. Is that 60W engine oil or gear oil?
if you go by the factory service manual , my bike calls for " grade 140" in ambient Temps. above 90°. But that is a " harley grade" not a viscosity rating. My bike uses 60w or 70w MOTOR OIL, in both the engine and primary. Not sure about the newer bikes 79 and up?
Chris, yer 76 is the last year of the transfer valve. That means motor oil and trans/primary oil are all the same. Lucky you, ya got the damn crossover shaft. The Feds declared in 74 standardized left shift and right brake. Check the adjustment on the shifter. Glad to hear ya ain't gonna stomp it into gear. Sounds like it's an adjustment issue. Do ya have both clutch springs OR 1 heavy duty spring? Tight primary chain, tight drive chain, not enough cable freeplay and clutch basket adjustments off WILL cause hard to engage/disengage 1st gear. Think of the "recomended " adjustment turns out after lightly seated . . . . as a suggestion. What's happening is the clutch plated are not releasing completely causing pressure on the gears.
I know . . . been there, done that
I have 1/8 " free play at the clutch lever. There are 2 brand new springs in the clutch basket. I checked free lengths on both springs prior to installation just to make sure they were correct. Not sure if having the POS crossover shaft makes me lucky? But that what I have( sarcasm noted) I plan on checking the actual shifting mechanism on the right side as soon as I get time. I believe there is a distance measurement on that side ( 1/8"???) Between the actual shifter arm and the swing arm bolt, if memory serves me correctly. Certainly worth investigating, since the crossover set up has a lot of spots that can develope sloppy joints over the years. Primary chain is adjusted to 5/8" on the tight spot. I did change the engine oil to 60w as well when I changed the primary oil.
Last edited by Chris Restifo; Jun 14, 2024 at 02:15 PM.
I believe I have discovered the issue? I readjusted the clutch and cable. When I pull the hand lever all the way there is a distinct clunk in the adjuster. I looked at the adjuster screw while pulling the lever. The adjuster is moving sideways slightly when making the clunk sound. My thought is that when I installed the new ball and ramp, I may not have staked it sufficiently and it is moving in the cover bore? I does seem to go into gear much better when I rock the bike back and forth. I'm thinking if the ball and ramp are moving around , I'm not getting FULL dis engagement?
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