Cams
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 253
Likes: 1
From: Virginia Beach
Cams
2009 XL1200N. How aggressive can you go with aftermarket cams, and not immediately need a port and polish??? What comes in them stock? Id like a little bit more power, but not have to rebuild everything (injectors, heads, port, polish, etc...), and need some more info. Any help would be great.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,523
Likes: 3
From: Illinois
I don't know much specifically about sportys, but in the touring range there are a million (ten or twenty) cam choices to make that will suit your/my riding style. Use the search function here, or go to the sporty section and you'll see many different variations that should suit you well.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,755
Likes: 1
From: dual citizen nomad
2009 XL1200N. How aggressive can you go with aftermarket cams, and not immediately need a port and polish??? What comes in them stock? Id like a little bit more power, but not have to rebuild everything (injectors, heads, port, polish, etc...), and need some more info. Any help would be great.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,641
Likes: 26
From: Ozark Country
Right after I purchased my 2005 1200C my Harley mechanic friend installed the Screamin' Eagle "E" cams. These have a lift of .551 and duration of .249, and are a 'drop in' upgrade for the 2004+ models.
Dyno runs show that the high torque "E" cams give an approximate 8 horsepower increase without any additional modifications to an engine that has already had what is called a "Stage 1" upgrade and good dyno tune.
He recommended the Screamin' Eagle "E" cams because they provide a good horsepower and torque boost throughtout the normal operating range, and don't limit the increase to only the mid to upper RPM range. After the "E" cams were installed the increase in power was noticed immediately.
Here is a little information dealing with the "E" cams;
"The new SE "E" grind is a terrific high-torque grind, relatively narrow with high lift and exceptional valvetrain dynamics. Note that this grind is a bolt-in for 2004 models but in 2003 and earlier models, better springs are required. Also note that it has a .050 smaller base circle than the 2003 and earlier grinds, consider this when calculating ideal pushrod length. This is the same cam grind (but not the same set of cams) that comes in new Buell XB models."
Below is a little audio/video clip of my 1200C at idle with the "E" cams installed. I used an old Sony digital camera with built in mic to film/record, so the sound is muted but it give you an idea of how the bike looks and sounds.
http://dogsdoom.com/PI/2005-1200C.mpg
Dyno runs show that the high torque "E" cams give an approximate 8 horsepower increase without any additional modifications to an engine that has already had what is called a "Stage 1" upgrade and good dyno tune.
He recommended the Screamin' Eagle "E" cams because they provide a good horsepower and torque boost throughtout the normal operating range, and don't limit the increase to only the mid to upper RPM range. After the "E" cams were installed the increase in power was noticed immediately.
Here is a little information dealing with the "E" cams;
"The new SE "E" grind is a terrific high-torque grind, relatively narrow with high lift and exceptional valvetrain dynamics. Note that this grind is a bolt-in for 2004 models but in 2003 and earlier models, better springs are required. Also note that it has a .050 smaller base circle than the 2003 and earlier grinds, consider this when calculating ideal pushrod length. This is the same cam grind (but not the same set of cams) that comes in new Buell XB models."
Below is a little audio/video clip of my 1200C at idle with the "E" cams installed. I used an old Sony digital camera with built in mic to film/record, so the sound is muted but it give you an idea of how the bike looks and sounds.
http://dogsdoom.com/PI/2005-1200C.mpg
Banned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 2
From: Fairmont, Wv
I am not a pro here but my best advice is to polish those heads and put in some larger valves. This will give you more horsepower and you can do most of the work yourself if you can turn a wrench. plus while you have them off, you can have them milled. I suggest doing both the cams and heads together, that way if you need to change springs, you can.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,122
Likes: 43
From: Boise Idaho
Your bike already has a very good set of cams in it from the factory, with good head work and a good exhaust you could get close to 90 HP with out changing the cams.
If you change the cams along all you're going to accomplish is steal 4HP from the bottom end and add it to the top end, which doesn't help much unless you ride on the red line all the time.
If you change the cams along all you're going to accomplish is steal 4HP from the bottom end and add it to the top end, which doesn't help much unless you ride on the red line all the time.
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