The rocker gaskets are fairly easy to do, but if you haven't done it before you should have a service manual on hand to walk you through. Make sure you clean the gasket surfaces really good before putting the new ones on.

 

Manual...CHECK. Helping hand...CHECK. How about gasket sealant, lubes, grease, and solvents? Is it like engine gaskets on a car? I'm new on wrenching on bikes. I like DIY projects, so I'm learning.

 

well heres what i did as far as looks nhrs breather kit,with cheap filter found at autozone 2.99,velocity stack with filter cause i plan to do alot of riding

 

I ended up using the breather that came with the velocity stack kit(why pay when it's FREE). Here's the new set up, a bit more stealthy and a lot more symmetrical. I'll check out that breather, though. The smaller the better because the leak isn't from the blow back, it's the engine gaskets. I was afraid of the breather being filled up with oil, but it's actually a different problem...damn, GASKETS!

 

no sealant of any type should be needed on the gaskets. The upper two gaskets will be the oring type which ussually will have no problem sealing up. The lower rocker gasket, the thin one that goes between the lower rocker and the head is where your really wanna make sure you clean the surfaces really well. If the surfaces there happen to have hairline scratches, then you could use a light coat of spray on gasket sealer(the tacky stuff) to give it a helping hand to seal, but in most cases you should be able to use the bare gasket.

 

Just changed the upper gaskets last night. It was a snap! Being that it is my first time wrenching on bikes, I did buy a service manual. It was nice to see a blown out picture of what I had to go through to get to the gasket. 4 allens and 1 torx, a wipe down...it was a done. The old gasket had little tears and was soaked in oil. It looked like it had a pinch near the front where there oil leak usually starts. A 15 mile test run and NO leaks with the new gasket. I changed both upper gaskets and still haven't done the lower...lower is a bit more work, but thank God this solved the problem. I'll keep an eye on that lower JIC. Thanks for the tip guys. Oh, The repair was a total of $30. 3 gaskets(uppers and lower) $16, eBay downloadable and CD service manual $14. Easy as pie.

 

I just fitted a Custom Chrome Air Filter Velo stack on my bike. I love the old school look but wanted filtration as its dry and dusty over here in west oz.
Fitted up nicely on my 2011 street bob and with the denim black, 1 1/2" drag bars and Bassani rr it all looks the part. First run; no backfires or anything (bike did have v&h short shots) and sounded a little throatier. Ran like a charm!

 

your filter has two inlets.... why not just put the filet inline with the hoses in place of the T fitting?

also you better get handy at working on that bike if you dont plan on running a real air filter

 

Done this on a couple bikes and it always works fine. The oil is from high rpm riding and is normal.

Tie the 2 vents together with a tee and run them over the top of the motor around the carb so they are out of sight but as high as possible.

Run down to around the bottom of cylinder on kick stand side

Add a tee and a vent up under the back of the tank area/in front of battery area.

Add a line running down from other side of tee, along under the swingarm of the kickstand side of the bike and plug it off with a bolt.

Drain the bolt after about 100 miles of riding just to see how much you are accumulating, probably won’t be much of anything in there. I normally drain it when I drain my oil, it won’t accumulate much oil at all even with hard riding.

 

Old thread but Thanks!
Not many people have stated to initially run the tubing high enough above the heads.
Wise indeed.

I am modding a stock 2005 Sporty air cleaner to route the oily air out. Then use your advice above.
For the last part of the hose I will use clear tubing to see the oil accumulated.