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Got any pics of the inside of the rocker boxes? I have to replace my rocker gaskets tomorrow, curious what I am getting into.
Thanx, RD.
Sorry I don't. They're fairly easy to get off and back on. You'll need a ft/lb and an inch/lb torque wrench. The jug underneath the seat has very little clearance for the bolts, so be prepared to battle it out with those two. I'd do that one first and get it out of the way. The forward one will be cake after that. Just be really careful about the torque settings. You tighten them too much and you'll break the gaskets.
The four for the top cover and my '87 had 9 mounting the lower assembly to the jugs. (4) 1/2 bolts and (5) hex. I had to take the pushrods out of the back jug to get the lower cover off, the front one came off. Make sure you label which end and where the pushrods came from. Also, if your bike is old as mine, get a good knife, razor blade and scraper because your gaskets are going to be glued onto the rocker box. Not fun.
I have never seen the inside of the valve assembly on one of these engines. I have no idea what I am getting into today. But it has to be done, and now is the time before I get the tank and fenders back from the painter. If I get in too deep, I will just have to pay someone to bail me out. I am determined to learn this stuff, and no time like the present.
What are the torque values? Is it vital to torque the rocker covers to spec? I do have an inch pound and foor pound torque wrench, but they were left loaded 7 years ago or so. lmao.
I don't have the book in front of me but I think the 4 1/2inch bolts were 25-30ft/lbs and the allens were 125-140 inch/lbs. You should DEFINITELY get yourself a Clymer repair book or a HD one if you don't have on already. If your is motor is solid mounted it'll also be easier to take off the top mount,(makes a lot more room for wrenching which also requires certain torque settings to put back together.
I got a plastic bag, wrapped the horn/ignition key housing and whatever else was hanging and zip tied it up and out of the way.
Definitely wouldn't go at this job without a book though. It's pretty simple, except if you have a Clymer, they don't tell you about all of the bolts in the lower rocker housing in the installation steps. They mention 4...of 9. So I just tightened them in a crisscross pattern according to the specs for the 1/2 bolts or the allen head bolts & it worked out for me.
I don't have the book in front of me but I think the 4 1/2inch bolts were 25-30ft/lbs and the allens were 125-140 inch/lbs. You should DEFINITELY get yourself a Clymer repair book or a HD one if you don't have on already. If your is motor is solid mounted it'll also be easier to take off the top mount,(makes a lot more room for wrenching which also requires certain torque settings to put back together.
I got a plastic bag, wrapped the horn/ignition key housing and whatever else was hanging and zip tied it up and out of the way.
Definitely wouldn't go at this job without a book though. It's pretty simple, except if you have a Clymer, they don't tell you about all of the bolts in the lower rocker housing in the installation steps. They mention 4...of 9. So I just tightened them in a crisscross pattern according to the specs for the 1/2 bolts or the allen head bolts & it worked out for me.
You have me worried now. I am going to take it apart tomorrow. How many pieces are there to the rocker setup?
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