SE cam choice
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Geneva, Switzerland
SE cam choice
Hi guys,
I've used the search function, including google, but I still feel i need to ask the question.
I want to change cams on 2011 48. I've already done a "stage 1" and I would still like to have more low end torque...I don't care about top speed.
Maybe later, if I find someone in the region that can do it, I'll look into head work etc, but for the moment, I do not know about anyone around me (I'm in Geneva Switzerland) that does head work...
So what would be the best cams for me? I would rather stick to SE cams, so that I can have me dealer, order/install/guaranty them.
Thanks,
Lou
I've used the search function, including google, but I still feel i need to ask the question.
I want to change cams on 2011 48. I've already done a "stage 1" and I would still like to have more low end torque...I don't care about top speed.
Maybe later, if I find someone in the region that can do it, I'll look into head work etc, but for the moment, I do not know about anyone around me (I'm in Geneva Switzerland) that does head work...
So what would be the best cams for me? I would rather stick to SE cams, so that I can have me dealer, order/install/guaranty them.
Thanks,
Lou
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,067
Likes: 394
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Do some reading on NRHS's web site, they have great information.
This is a great page here and follow some of the links for more cam education: http://www.nrhsperformance.com/tech.shtml
This is a great page here and follow some of the links for more cam education: http://www.nrhsperformance.com/tech.shtml
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,641
Likes: 26
From: Ozark Country
I've been running the SE "E" Cams in my 1200C. The "E" Cams have a lift of .551 and duration of .249.
They were recommended by my Harley Dealership mechanic friend that also does the dyno tuning on Sportsters and other Harley's..
Great performance increase throughout the RPM band.....
Here is what NRHS says about the SE "E" Cams;
"The new SE "E" grind is a terrific high-torque grind, relatively narrow with high lift and exceptional valvetrain dynamics. Note that this grind is a bolt-in for 2004 models but in 2003 and earlier models, better springs are required. Also note that it has a .050 smaller base circle than the 2003 and earlier grinds, consider this when calculating ideal pushrod length. This is the same cam grind (but not the same set of cams) that comes in new Buell XB models."
They were recommended by my Harley Dealership mechanic friend that also does the dyno tuning on Sportsters and other Harley's..
Great performance increase throughout the RPM band.....
Here is what NRHS says about the SE "E" Cams;
"The new SE "E" grind is a terrific high-torque grind, relatively narrow with high lift and exceptional valvetrain dynamics. Note that this grind is a bolt-in for 2004 models but in 2003 and earlier models, better springs are required. Also note that it has a .050 smaller base circle than the 2003 and earlier grinds, consider this when calculating ideal pushrod length. This is the same cam grind (but not the same set of cams) that comes in new Buell XB models."
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Geneva, Switzerland
Wow...there's a lot of info there, and to be honest, it's still not making sense to me...except the part where they compare this cam to that cam, and show the dyno results, and I really don't think that Dan has any reason to push one cam over another except if he believes that it's a better cam for that particular application.
I'm thinking now of going with the se 536 cams, and building on that later...
FenderGuy, did your mechanic ever discuss why the E and not the 536? based on what I just read, they are pretty much similar all the way through the power band, but up top, the 536 take over, but since it's around 7+k rpm, maybe it doesn't matter to a street bike.
L
I'm thinking now of going with the se 536 cams, and building on that later...
FenderGuy, did your mechanic ever discuss why the E and not the 536? based on what I just read, they are pretty much similar all the way through the power band, but up top, the 536 take over, but since it's around 7+k rpm, maybe it doesn't matter to a street bike.
L
5th Gear
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Mount Gambier, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
I've been running the SE "E" Cams in my 1200C. The "E" Cams have a lift of .551 and duration of .249.
They were recommended by my Harley Dealership mechanic friend that also does the dyno tuning on Sportsters and other Harley's..
Great performance increase throughout the RPM band.....
Here is what NRHS says about the SE "E" Cams;
"The new SE "E" grind is a terrific high-torque grind, relatively narrow with high lift and exceptional valvetrain dynamics. Note that this grind is a bolt-in for 2004 models but in 2003 and earlier models, better springs are required. Also note that it has a .050 smaller base circle than the 2003 and earlier grinds, consider this when calculating ideal pushrod length. This is the same cam grind (but not the same set of cams) that comes in new Buell XB models."
They were recommended by my Harley Dealership mechanic friend that also does the dyno tuning on Sportsters and other Harley's..
Great performance increase throughout the RPM band.....
Here is what NRHS says about the SE "E" Cams;
"The new SE "E" grind is a terrific high-torque grind, relatively narrow with high lift and exceptional valvetrain dynamics. Note that this grind is a bolt-in for 2004 models but in 2003 and earlier models, better springs are required. Also note that it has a .050 smaller base circle than the 2003 and earlier grinds, consider this when calculating ideal pushrod length. This is the same cam grind (but not the same set of cams) that comes in new Buell XB models."
As I am looking at doing the 1200 conversion with the SE1200 kit (cylinders & heads) to my 2010 883C. whilst dismantled i'll do a cam up grade too. Will I need to buy new springs to accomadate the higher lift or the springs included in kit will be fine.
thanks Malcolm
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 341
Likes: 1
Hi guys,
I've used the search function, including google, but I still feel i need to ask the question.
I want to change cams on 2011 48. I've already done a "stage 1" and I would still like to have more low end torque...I don't care about top speed.
Maybe later, if I find someone in the region that can do it, I'll look into head work etc, but for the moment, I do not know about anyone around me (I'm in Geneva Switzerland) that does head work...
So what would be the best cams for me? I would rather stick to SE cams, so that I can have me dealer, order/install/guaranty them.
Thanks,
Lou
I've used the search function, including google, but I still feel i need to ask the question.
I want to change cams on 2011 48. I've already done a "stage 1" and I would still like to have more low end torque...I don't care about top speed.
Maybe later, if I find someone in the region that can do it, I'll look into head work etc, but for the moment, I do not know about anyone around me (I'm in Geneva Switzerland) that does head work...
So what would be the best cams for me? I would rather stick to SE cams, so that I can have me dealer, order/install/guaranty them.
Thanks,
Lou
If they are like D's then swapping them out for W's cams will give you more bottom end power. Also going to a smaller front pulley like a 27 tooth will help too and not cost alot of money.
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